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#16
09-30-2010, 11:48 PM
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Thanks. I think practice and patience is the key. It took hours to fill in the grain and sand it smooth. Now, I need to wait a few days to let the lacquer fully cure before rubbing it out.
As for the toner - you just need to practice on some scraps. Once you get the right distance, speed and spacing of your passes with the spray can, it's pretty easy. I posted a couple videos on the project to my youtube channel. I'll put up part three soon. 
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#17
10-01-2010, 11:35 PM
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A friend stopped by today and commented on the design of this set's four long legs. It hadn't occurred to me, but I guess this is a fairly unique design. Sort of a tabletop with it's own table built in
 Were there other sets with long legs like this ?
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#19
10-22-2010, 12:57 PM
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Another progress update
I've been slowly touching up the control area and working on the "picture frame".
The were many dings on the slats and around the control decals.  I used Howard's Restore-a-Finish to clean and work out the blemishes. Then, I used a small brush and lacquer (clear or toned depending on the damage) to fill the dings in.  Once dry, I sanded them flush being careful not to break through to the wood. It took several passed to fill the deeper ones. A more traditional (and quicker!) method would be to melt a tinted shellac stick into the dings, but it's something I've never tried.  Then, I clear coated it with several coats of semi-gloss lacquer.  Loads of dings in the frame too. I used some mahogany wood filler on the larger ones and shellac on the smaller.  I spruced up the front panel with some red mahogany minwax stain.  That leaves one major task - mask off the frame and paint the inside bead metallic gold. 
Last edited by bandersen; 10-22-2010 at 08:26 PM.
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#21
10-22-2010, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Phil 
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#22
10-22-2010, 08:22 PM
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Animated GIF - very nice
 Are other Westinghouse models re-branded too ?I've head these guys referred to as a "tabletop on stilts". I'm a little surprised at how many variations of this set they cranked out. It seems like a somewhat primitive design for 1949  Quote:
 The chassis is nasty looking, but I think it's in good shape underneath the gunk. Last edited by bandersen; 10-23-2010 at 01:47 AM.
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#23
10-22-2010, 08:47 PM
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I'm pretty excited about this resto-I have seen a lot of these, but they are always trashed. We owned a pretty nice cabinet for one for a couple of years, before giving up on finding a chassis and dumping it. They seem to have been fairly popular, so perhaps they filled a niche for people that wanted a cheap floor model (possibly cost just a few dollars more than a table model).
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#24
10-23-2010, 01:32 AM
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Aw, that stinks! Once my GE810 is done, I think I'll tackle the Philco 60 I just picked up then jump into this chassis.
I fear it's going to take a while...
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#25
10-23-2010, 01:54 AM
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That is some incredible work Bob!
I think I'll go throw my Westinghouse cabinet away now, I know I can never do a job that good.  As for a Philco connection to Westinghouse, the H-619 I'm restoring in another thread has the Philco style corners on the chassis, where Philco uses the rubber isolation mounts. I don't know if it ever used them or not though, and since it was probably a patented Philco design I think possibly they built the chassis for WH, or at least did the metal stamping.
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#27
10-25-2010, 08:53 PM
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Thanks guys! It all would have been a lot easier if I could have broken down the cabinet, but it's built like a tank. Lots of glue blocks and wood screws reinforcing the joints.
I finished off the picture frame this afternoon. I roughed up the lacquer that sprayed onto the inner lip so it would accept paint more readily. Then masked it off and gave it a few light coats of Rustoleum Specialty Metallic Gold.  Here it is with the safety glass temporarily reinstalled. Much classier looking now I think  I'll touch up the inner screen surround with some "ivory bisque" AKA "off-white". They sure do have a lot of silly paint names these days. That leaves one cosmetic task. The channel selector plate is in rough shape.  I believe the dealer would pop in up to eight tuning strips for your particular area. How strange that the first position is labeled "1-2" in 1949. Perhaps this plate was used in earlier Philco sets too The rest of the sequence is 3, 4, 5-6, 7, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13. I'm considering fabricating a new one from scratch or perhaps someone out there has a spare one in better condition ? Last edited by bandersen; 11-17-2010 at 09:24 PM.
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#28
10-25-2010, 10:58 PM
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WOW! from a train wreck to a proud display set. I have three eye sores hidden in the basement, now i'm all guilt ridden.
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#29
10-25-2010, 11:06 PM
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I'ts a MUSEUM piece! With your restoration talents, you SHOULD quit your day job! Glad to have the likes of you and Phil Nelson around!
Joe L’Erario and Ed Feldman could really learn sumpin' from you! Cheers,
__________________
Brian USN RET 22YRS (Avionics/Cal) CET-Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit!
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#30
10-25-2010, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
 I grew up watching Roy Underhill on the Woodwright's Shop. Probably why I rarely use power tools I wish I could quit the three jobs I'm currently juggling. I just don't have the time to sling much solder right now. On the other hand, my jobs involve sitting in front of a computer at all hours of the day and night so I get to post a lot and search for more treasures on ebay 
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