Three new Admirals on my porch - Page 3 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

bgadow · #31 07-26-2011, 10:19 PM

It's a wonder that anyone at Admiral could keep up with all the revisions. Right up into the color era they were good for having lots of "Run" numbers. In a way I guess it's good, to have that continuous improvement. When these sets were being made, of course, they were cranking 'em out as fast as they possibly could, and probably shoving in any crt they could get their hands on.

bandersen · #32 07-30-2011, 06:47 PM

I stumbled across someone selling an empty, intact 19A11 cabinet. They say they'll be at the ARCI radiofest in a few days.
I do plan on going and if it's still available and I have any money left, I just might go for it.

Penthode · #33 07-30-2011, 07:41 PM

I have success repairing a hole like that. However I had to canabalize another bakelite cabinet. There are plenty of broken brown bakelite cabinets aound so that should not pose too much of a problem.

I filed the hole evenly to a circular shape. I then from cut the donated cabinet a plug to closley match the hole. It took a while but with a little patience, you can file it to the shape of the hole with no perceptible gaps.

The then epoxied in place the plug. I did not use the 5 minute variety expoxy but one which took a bit longer to harden so that I could clamp the plug in place. The plug I made was slightly thicker (1/32") and so clamping on the outside with a steel plate and on the inside with a piece of timber (poplar) ensured the plug was absolutely flush with the cabinet surface.

After the epoxy fully hardened, I went at it with fine and the finer wet and dry paper and then pumice and rottenstone until the original lustre was restored.

I was very pleased with the result: the plug matched the cabinet very well and even looking at it closely, I found the repair hard to detect.

Terry

bandersen · #34 07-31-2011, 04:15 PM

I figure I'd better do a little exploratory surgery before I place an order for parts with Mouser.

First up the 16R12 tabletop.
The cabinet is in really good conditions as is the chassis. No rust thanks to the copper plating.

The vertical output transformer has been replace along with a few paper caps.
Hmm, the resistors look a little odd

They're all German! I wonder if they had trouble sourcing parts to keep up with demand ?

bandersen · #35 07-31-2011, 04:19 PM

Here's the 26R12. It's cabinet is also in good condition.

This chassis is also in good condition. No corrosion and only a few replacement parts.
Also, no German resistors.

Here they are side-by-side. You can really see the difference between the Silverama CRT on the left and the 16KP4 on the right.

I'll create separate restoration threads once I begin work to avoid confusion.

WISCOJIM · #36 07-31-2011, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bandersen

I stumbled across someone selling an empty, intact 19A11 cabinet. They say they'll be at the ARCI radiofest in a few days.
I do plan on going and if it's still available and I have any money left, I just might go for it.

I'll be in my usual spots at Willowbrook with that cabinet Bob. Seven spaces shared with Alan Jesperson in the area circled on the parking lot picture below:

bandersen · #37 07-31-2011, 08:50 PM

Excellent! See you on Friday

Electronic M · #38 07-31-2011, 11:36 PM

I have a Majestic TV that has several of those german resistors in it. I wondered if any other american sets used them, and now I know.

dieseljeep · #39 08-01-2011, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I have a Majestic TV that has several of those german resistors in it. I wondered if any other american sets used them, and now I know.

Someone claimed, there were parts shortages because of the Korean war. I think the green ones are Japanese "Koaohm".

kvflyer · #40 08-01-2011, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bandersen

Here's the 16R26. It's cabinet is also in good condition.

Here they are side-by-side. You can really see the difference between the Silverama CRT on the left and the 16KP4 on the right.

I'll create separate restoration threads once I begin work to avoid confusion.

Bob,

I think that the 16R12 came with a 16KP4/16RP4 originally. I wonder if that CRT was a replacement and it was made to work in the cabinet? Or, maybe it was a version of the same one. Interesting.

You can see that the HV cage is different between the two chassis so it is entirely possible that the 16R12 came with the 17" tube. Both chassis that I had/have are like your 26R12 with the louvers etc.

As for resistors, I found a similar thing when I worked on my set. There were several "doubled up" resistors to attain a certain value. I suspected a poor repair job in the past. But it was suggested that Admiral was having difficulty getting resistors, maybe for the reason stated above. So, yours is interesting. As you can see, an easy restore with plenty of room. I opened all of the electrolytic cans and stuffed them. In one situation, I could not fit one value so I installed two in parallel and they fit just fine, I am thinking it was a 20µFD and I installed two identical 10µFD in parallel. That fit just fine.

One other thing that you may find odd is that both of my chassis have a 12H6 instead of a 6H6 and both chassis were rubber stamped with "12H6" so I know it was not a mistake

kvflyer · #41 08-01-2011, 10:31 AM

An ad...

These images are low res for web posting...

Electronic M · #42 08-01-2011, 12:02 PM

At least one of the green dogbone esque resistors (which constitute all the odd ones on my set) are labeled "Germany".

Tom C.

bandersen · #43 08-01-2011, 03:06 PM

Thanks for the info and the cool ad

It seems they made this chassis for several years and there were many revisions.

Here's an excerpt from Beitmans 1952.

Quote:

A 12H6 tube may be used instead of a 6AL5 tube for V404 sync discriminator. A 6H6 tube was also used in some sets. The pin numbering for the 12H6 and 6H6 is identical; the 6AL5 pin numbering is different.

When the 12H6 tube is used for V404, an auto-transformer is used to step up the 6.3 volts to 12.6...

If a 12H6 is not available for replacement, a type 6H6 tube may be used if the following changes to the heater circuit are made...

It seems not just resistors were in short supply.

bandersen · #44 08-01-2011, 03:08 PM

Arg! The copper chassis is missing the IF shield

kvflyer · #45 08-02-2011, 06:06 AM

Bob,

Few things:

- Thanks for that update about the filament voltage of the 12H6. I don't have the Beitmans (Do have the Wallace's Telaides) and didn't know it. I will have see if I can find this autotransformer and/or measure the filament voltage of the 12H6. Neither chassis had the 6AL5. But that could easily be changed with the correct wafer socket if necessary.

- I don't think I have the IF shield but will look. I did save some other items like the flyback, yoke etc. from the 16R12 that I had to part out. I got it for the HV cage that was missing from my 26R12. Bakelite cabinet arrived in multiple pieces due to poor (make that non-existent) packing material.

- And I can email the ad in a much higher res to you if you wish...