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#61
11-17-2011, 12:55 PM
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Anyone know if there are any differences between the 20X1 and 20Z1 chassis, other than the control locations?
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#62
11-17-2011, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
I've pretty much finished buffing out the cabinet. The grooves were actually pretty easy to clean out.   Here's a closeup of an area that was sanded and one that was just polished. I wonder if something like black shoe polish would help any   
Last edited by bandersen; 11-17-2011 at 06:15 PM.
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#63
11-17-2011, 08:58 PM
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It looks very nice as is.
Personally I sort of like a duller satin look on Bakelite, especially after dust settles on it, because there's always dust around here. 
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#64
11-17-2011, 09:23 PM
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Yeah, I know what you mean
 That's another reason I don't like using oils or waxes on bakelite - the dust sticks to it.
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#65
11-25-2011, 11:35 PM
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I cleaned up the brass outer knobs with Brasso followed by Simichrome.
I let the inner knobs soak in some diluted 409 then buffed with Novus #2.   The power cord is all brittle and cracking. Luckily, I have some NOS replacements. I carefully removed the old cord while preserving the rivets. I read that it was possible to soften the replacements in hot water and mush them over the old brass rivets. It actually worked       next, I replaced the old crumbly faceplate foam with some closed cell insulation held on by contact cement.     And so another project comes to an end 
Last edited by bandersen; 11-26-2011 at 12:01 AM.
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#66
11-26-2011, 12:58 AM
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I must say that's some mighty fine TV restoration work there.
 Does that semi chrome keep the brass from tarnishing for a reasonable time, or do you end up clear coating with lacquer?
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#67
11-26-2011, 01:57 AM
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Thanks. The Simichrome can claims it will prevent tarnish from returning. I suppose the longest I've had bare brass treated with Simichrome is 2 years and it looks OK. I have coated some knobs with Mohawk lacquer formulated for brass and they look like new after a couple years too. Time will tell.
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#68
11-26-2011, 11:52 AM
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Bob, as usual, that set looks and functions super. Good Job! and thanks for the tip on how to replace the cheater cord. I don't have those rivets either so I had to resort to something not as pretty. You can bet I will try your trick for sure!
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#70
11-26-2011, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
Maybe try setting up a search on eBay for "cheater cords" with email alerts. I'm sure some will pop up eventually.
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#71
11-27-2011, 03:59 PM
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Another excellent restoration project Bob, I've been following this one on You Tube as well... You must be seeing Admiral TV's behind your eyelids by now when you close them!
Out of curiosity how big are these sets dimension wise? I'm guessing they're quite compact going by the pictures... Great stuff anyway, I always enjoy your posts/videos. Cheers Glen
__________________
Visit my Vintage TV & Radio Page - http://nzvintagetvradio.blogspot.com/ My YouTube Link - http://www.youtube.com/user/glenz1975?feature=mhsn
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#72
11-27-2011, 05:36 PM
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Thanks. Yeah, I've pretty much memorized the schematic by now. It's nice to have a couple of the same chassis for comparison.
It is pretty small as vintage TVs go - about 18" deep, 15" tall and 14" wide.
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#74
11-27-2011, 10:03 PM
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Hey Bob - I've been working on my Admiral tuner and I noticed in your vid "Admiral 20x11 restoration part 4 of 5", it doesn't appear that you put parts M!05 and M113 back on (the clip and the washer) at12:09 in the vid. I do see you remove them (at least the washer) in 10:48. Am I missing something? I was trying to figure out how mine went back in.
Last edited by Nuke; 11-27-2011 at 10:08 PM.
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#75
11-27-2011, 10:44 PM
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I think I forgot to put them back on when I recorded the video, but I did later. I could take some photos if that would help.
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