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#32
04-21-2012, 10:21 AM
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Well i havent had time to work on the tv yet (eoc exams and staar testing all happening right now...) but my grandpa is coming down from Missouri to visit us in a few weeks and he usd to repair tvs on the side in the 70s and 60s sadly he threw all of this stuff out in the 90s when he moved to a new house.
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#33
04-21-2012, 03:54 PM
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Well i had a few minutes of free time today so i thought that i would check the Instamatic and see if i could find anything oubiously wrong within 15 minutes i found 3 capacitors from a previous repair that had cold solder joints (one of these caps was connected to the wrong place) and 1 cap that i had replaced was soldered to the wrong lug of the terminal strip. Tonight i will check the resistors though none look burnt or anything there are probably a few out of tolerances that i should go ahead and replace now so i don't have to open it back up.
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#34
04-22-2012, 03:28 PM
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OK so i fixed the previous "repaired" and the one mistake i made and and nothing but tubes no longer glow so bright I did not hookup a speaker up to it yet to see if there was sound but i know there was no high voltage (i held a fluorescent light up to the wire that comes from the flyback) any ideas now i am going to go check for wiring mistakes and check all resistors for out of tolorence and also does it look like it has a replacement transformer?
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#35
04-22-2012, 04:10 PM
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and we have video sorta but no sound! heres the link
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0zkDtCY4lM I know that its not great but its a start!!!
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#36
04-22-2012, 05:41 PM
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Light on the screen is progress. You have HV of some sort and the vertical sweep circuit is trying to work.
Don't play it for long periods with a bright horizontal line on the screen. That can eventually burn a permanent dark line in the picture tube. If somebody else messed with it in the past, that is all the more reason to sit down with the schematic next to the TV and double-check everything for wiring mistakes, components with wrong values, dripped blobs of solder, short circuits caused by accidentally pushing the wire of a component so that it touches something else, etc., etc. Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios http://antiqueradio.org/index.html
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#37
04-22-2012, 06:33 PM
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Trapezoidal pattern is almost always a yoke problem. If the wiring has been messed with, it might simply be miswired. If it hasn't been miswired, the yoke has developed leakage 'tween the H and V windings.
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#38
04-22-2012, 08:39 PM
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We'll there are splices everywhere and a few wires that are clipped off all of these are getting replaced according to the schamatic. Also does anyone in the Austin area have a tube tester and a crt tester that wouldnt mind me using for a moment?
Last edited by josephdaniel; 04-22-2012 at 08:50 PM.
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#39
04-23-2012, 06:04 AM
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Definitely get all of the tubes checked in the set. This was one of biggest of many mistakes I made on my first TV. Now testing every tube in the set it the second thing I do behind general cleaning of the chassis. I load up a shoebox with all the tubes and head to my local vintage radio shop where he can test all of them and replace any that are bad or questionable. Maybe there is a shop in your area that works on vintage stuff that can do likewise.
Oh and have fun with your set, don't get discouraged, ask many questions. The people here are an amazing wealth of information and always ready to help.
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#40
04-23-2012, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Carl
__________________
CW 1950 Zenith Porthole - "Lincoln"
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| Audiokarma |
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#41
04-23-2012, 08:13 PM
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Bout half way done cheking resistors and 3 are missing and there is one that is several dog bones tied together and those are way off and about 15 ressitors that are more than 20% percent off. thinking about getting my own tube tester.
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#42
04-23-2012, 09:34 PM
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tube tester, CRT tester, VTVM,scope,cap tester it goes on and on and on....
I like my 1076 analyst, very handy for trouble shooting, and generally just a cool piece of test equipment. If you buy a tube tester, buy one that lets you test all the tubes you are likely to see and buy a good one, for tv work I think a good shorts and grid emission is vital. If you are not careful you will end up with several tube testers. The one I use the most is my mercury 1000. A good CRT tester like a CR-70 is nice too. an Eye tube cap tester is handy, some say not needed just replace all old caps, but I use it to verify the values of caps going in and to make sure the new ones are not leaky (some have been, BRAND NEW made in china junk).
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