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#1
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Help removing jail bars from Zenith 19JC55Z
I'm hoping someone here can help me. I have a Zenith Chromacolor II using the 19JC55Z chassis and the left 1/4 of the screen has vertical bars (I believe they're called "Jail Bars"). I've searched and found very little. What I did find pointed to bad caps.
I'm attaching a pic of the problem and hope this can be fixed. The set has been in the family since '77 and has had its trippler and driver board replaced. Other than those two things, she's original and still has a great picture (well, until the bars showed up). If you need more information, please let me know. I do have the repair manual, but it doesn't have any troubleshooting section. Thanks
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 Last edited by TinCanAlley; 05-10-2026 at 06:14 PM. |
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#2
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Look for a 4.7uF or 10uF @ 160v or 250v electrolytic cap on the 9-88 board, if I recall (or on the 9-121 socket board if that set has an inline tube). It's been years, but I think there's another electrolytic down on the bottom section of the chassis (opposite end from the power transformer), and somewhat buried. It may even be on the upright section but toward the bottom (the side of the upright without the modules; facing the CRT). Sorry for the blurry memory on that...
Charles
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Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10 |
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#3
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i had that issue on a couple of vertical chassis zeniths.it turned out to be loose horizontal module.sylvania solid state sets also produced this same defect when the screws were loose on the horizontal/vertical module.i have this on my magnavox bicentennial set.only with direct tv box.it is fine on dvd.
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#4
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Quote:
Not sure where to go from here. The video output board is about a year old (it was NOS). Does this info help? Thanks
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
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#5
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Quote:
The caps in it are 35 yrs old and I'm sure the electrolytic ones are pretty dry by now.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
| Audiokarma |
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#6
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man.. that's an odd symptom. I have a ton of Chromacolor modules, so if you need any, let me know which ones.......
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#7
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Quote:
Let me take a look at the manual on that chassis to refresh my memory... Might not get a chance til tomorrow, but now I need to know because it's bugging me . It was definitely an electrolytic; not one of the paper or mylar caps. Charles
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Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10 |
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#8
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Quote:
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
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#9
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Thanks! Great to know. I spent a good month locating a 9-121. It was NOS and I got it for $10. After a lesson in adjusting the color pots, I managed to actually get a better color output than factory. The whites are so much whiter now.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
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#10
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Bump
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
| Audiokarma |
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#11
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The boosted B+ that screen controls get G2 voltage from has a bad electrolytic.
Possibly a sweep-derived voltage serving the video stages also. If somebody could post a schematic of CRT and G2-video circuits, we could pick it out. |
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#12
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I have a PDF of the schematics. It has all the boards, part lists and circuit diagrams. Only problem is that it is too large to attach here. Which boards are you needing? Is it the video output board (9-121)? That's the board attached to the neck of the CRT. It has the master G2 and the RGB G2s. If that's the board, I might be able to copy and past that info into another smaller file.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
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#13
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IIRC, The boosted B+ filter cap is a section of one of the can type caps on the rear chassis.
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#14
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Quote:
Thanks!
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 Last edited by TinCanAlley; 05-10-2026 at 06:14 PM. |
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#15
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I'm pretty sure the boost filter is inside the multi-section power supply filter cap. If so and if that cap is bad, you'd be better off to replace the entire capacitor with individual capacitors. Trust me, I've learned this the hard way. One section of a cap will be bad, I'll isolate the bad section and add a good cap to the circuit, and then another section will fail in a week.
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http://www.youtube.com/user/radiotvphononut |
| Audiokarma |
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