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#16
10-03-2012, 04:57 PM
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Novus Plastic polish has worked well for me.
Around $10 for the kit, contains a cleaner and two different polishes for light or medium scratches. http://http://www.novuspolish.com/ Or you could try a headlight re-clearing kit from the auto store, it's also plastic polish and abrasive pads of varying degrees. Either one should work well. Rob 
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#17
10-03-2012, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
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#18
10-10-2012, 01:22 PM
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Okay, almost finished with this set,
but the small speaker has a huge hole in it. I know a new one is only a few bucks, but I had this old Magnavox speaker from a console, just about the same size, and it will fit, but it has a capacitor, and a little bigger magnet. Anyone know if it'll work? I think the ohms are the same... If so, do I need the cap?
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#19
10-10-2012, 01:39 PM
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Can you patch the hole with tea bag paper and fabric glue? I have done that many times. Nobody will see it and that type of speaker will probably sound the same.
Phil Nelson
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#20
10-10-2012, 06:44 PM
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Good to know those little "tricks of the trade", thanks Phil.
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#21
10-11-2012, 11:59 PM
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Got the slip plate for the CRT, looks and feels better than new!
Hooked up the CRT to the chassis with new caps, but no light on the CRT. There was before I took it apart, hmmm? I rechecked my soldering, it looks good. I think the first thing to do is start checking the old tubes. I know the horizontal output tube is bad, there is no glow to it, barely one I should say, and I am sure a few others are weak or bad as well.... I just bought a Sencore Mighty Mite tube tester today, have to wait for it to get here, probably next week sometime. Can I spray the tuner with Deoxit? Right inside all around? Or is that a foolish idea??
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#22
10-12-2012, 12:14 AM
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Is there an ion trap on this tube and is it on correctly ?
SR
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#23
10-12-2012, 01:37 AM
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Don't spray DeOxit all over the tuner. Soaking phenolic with that stuff may be bad medicine.
Better to dab the contacts with a Q-tip dipped in DeOxit (or your favorite alternate cleaner). Don't use anything abrasive on the contacts. You could also wait until you have a picture and then judge whether the tuner seems dirty. If it changes channels cleanly and you have a clear picture and audio, maybe it's fine. Phil Nelson
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#24
10-12-2012, 01:40 AM
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It does require a trap.
Are you sure you mean the horizontal output and not the High Voltage Rectifier? The 1B3 Rectifier will not have any visible glow except perhaps in a dark room, and then only if the High Voltage is working since it derives it's filament voltage from a single turn winding on the Flyback.
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#25
10-12-2012, 06:00 AM
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Try placing a neon tester lamp against the 12DQ6 plate lead or cap. If it does not light, the tube may be bad or horizontal drive is incorrect/missing.
If you have light, try it close to the HV rect 1G3 cap, again if you have light AND the tube is good you probably have HV. Then the CRT voltages on cathode, grid and screen need to be checked.
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#26
10-12-2012, 06:19 AM
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The capacitor on that speaker was to eliminate the bass: the speaker was originally used as a tweeter or midrange. You could remove the cap and wire it direct.
__________________
Reece Perfection is hard to reach with a screwdriver.
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#27
10-12-2012, 06:36 PM
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I don't remember exactly how it went on, and the schematic doesn't specify. Does this look right to anyone?
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#28
10-12-2012, 06:48 PM
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I used Deoxit in the socket, (I don't think it was dry when I put the tube back in), and when I turned the set on, that hor. out. tube lit up very bright, then went dead. I don't know if the Deoxit was a catalyst to heat up that tube, but seems like it. I turned the set on tonight in the dark, and that tube was dead, no light at all coming from it at all. Would that make no picture appear on the CRT?
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#29
10-12-2012, 07:08 PM
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Assuming you have high voltage the procedure is to turn the brightness and contrast up about 3/4 of the way, then you both rotate the trap side to side and slide it forward and backwards, it is adjusted correctly when the picture reaches the brightest point with no neck shadows and good focus, if there is a separate Focus control you may have to go back and forth a little to get it perfect. There is a front and back to the Trap also, if it's flipped front to back it may still work but it will be in a spot 180 degrees from where it was originally. Based on what my set had the magnet on the trap should be pointing towards the left side viewed from the rear (it's correct in your picture) if you can only get a raster with it pointing to the right side then flip it front to back and try again. It's important not to run the set with a misadjusted trap, particularly if the brightness is up high, supposedly it can damage the gun in the CRT if the Beam is hitting something it's not supposed to be.
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#30
10-12-2012, 07:14 PM
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I believe there are several points on this set where that could happen, the heater string wiring going from one board to the next is one possibility, it also goes to the tune I think for the tubes there, if say you connected one end to ground instead of continuing on to the next tube in the string it would put extra voltage across the remaining tubes equal to the amount of the tubes left out. In cases like this it's a good idea to install a jumper across the heater pins in the CRT socket and leave the tube disconnected until you locate the problem, you don't want to burn out that one!
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