RCA Victor7T174K TV

[Electronic M]

I just checked and mine is a model 17-T-200, and it also has two RCA jacks on the back.




My set has been low on my restoration list, but now that I know that it has a video input I'm rethinking my prioritys. I don't have the schematic (if your sam's covers my model you could make me very happy by sending a copy to me) so I don't know if one could connect a DVD player, VCR, etc. to it directly, but even if will not work directly I bet a OP amp circuit could be built and installed under chassis to make it work (I sort of hope for the latter as I'd like to try my hand at creating said OP amp circuit).

Good luck on your restoraton.

Tom C.

PS: I think you have got a cooler cabinet on your set, but I'm still glad to have the table model due to my space limitations.

[compucat]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I just checked and mine is a model 17-T-200, and it also has two RCA jacks on the back.

My set has been low on my restoration list, but now that I know that it has a video input I'm rethinking my prioritys. I don't have the schematic (if your sam's covers my model you could make me very happy by sending a copy to me) so I don't know if one could connect a DVD player, VCR, etc. to it directly, but even if will not work directly I bet a OP amp circuit could be built and installed under chassis to make it work (I sort of hope for the latter as I'd like to try my hand at creating said OP amp circuit).

Good luck on your restoraton.

Tom C.

PS: I think you have got a cooler cabinet on your set, but I'm still glad to have the table model due to my space limitations.

The Sams I have does not cover your model number but it does mention chassis numbers KCS66C and KCS66D. If this is your chassis let me know. I have the Sams as a pdf file and will be happy to send you a copy.

As far as using the video jack for a DVD player, you would also need another audio input. The supplied phono jack only works when the selector is in the phono position thus turning off the TV picture circuits including the CRT filament and sweep stages.

Your set looks great. Is the front of your set metal as well? I know some metal cased sets have plastic front panels and CRT bezels. I notice the back on yours has a moulded step to it. The console set just has a flat back. I found an advertisement for these sets.

[Electronic M]

I just checked and the chassis is a KCS72-M2. I guess I'm going to have to look for a sam's elsewhere.

I'm not concearned by the switch for phono jack, and heck I could probably rewire it to let the sweep circuits, and the audio and video outputs run, while killing the voltage to filaments of RF and IF only.

The entire cabinet is metal.

Gotta run.

Tom C.

[Penthode]

I looked through my RCA notes and all the KCS72 chassis (A thru D) are for 21 inch sets. I did find service data for a 17T150 which has the identical cabinet to yours and features the KCS66C Chassis.

Can you provide a tube line up of your set? Have you found the service notes just yet?

Cheers, Terry

[Electronic M]

I'm not sure if I have the sam's or not as I have two boxes of somewhat random and incomplete folders that I should search before I shell out cash for the folder or ask some one to go to the effort of sending me a copy.Edit: I've confirmed that I don't have a copy of the sam's.

According to the sam's site it is folder number 184-12 (KCS72A) that contains the data for my model (17t200), but I hate to buy it from them as it usually costs a fortune.

My set IS a 17" screen model. If you have the folder and the tube on the schematic is a 21" you might want to check the parts list as I have found on other sets I have that among the types listed in the parts list are sometimes tubes with completely different screen sizes than in the schematic (I speculate they did this to give the CRT number for model varyants with different screen sizes).

I tried to get a picture of the tube layout in my set, but I could not get a ledgible picture. If you still want the tube layout I supose that I could copy it by hand or try again to get a picture.

Tom C.

[Penthode]

I checked the KCS72A data for the 21T207. The chassis layout looks similar to the KCS66A. However the ttubecompliment is somewhat different. Also the KCS72A has three video IF tubes and the KCS66A has four. The other noticeable difference is the KCS72A has two tube rectifiers (5U4 and 5Y3) in place of the selenium rectifiers.

Tube compliment of KCS72A 21":
6CB6 RF amp
6J6 Osc Mixer
6CB6 three stages of VIF
12AU7 2nd detector Vert Sync amp
6AG7 video amp
6AU6 two stages SIF
6AL5 ratio detect
6AV6 first audio
6K6 audi out
6AU6 AGC
6SN7 horiz sync
6J5 vert osc
6K6 vert out
6SN7 horiz osc
6BQ6 horiz out
6W4 damper
1B3 HV rect
21AP4 pict tube
5U4 and 5Y3 rectifiers

Does this match?

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

My set has been low on my restoration list, but now that I know that it has a video input I'm rethinking my prioritys.

If the jack is connected to the cathode, wouldn't that be an output, rather than a video in? Considering I'm not looking at the schematic it's hard to say for sure.

[compucat]

After a long time of sitting about this TV is finally getting its turn at restoration. I pulled the chassis and found that it had been partially recapped and some of the repairs looked quite old. Much of the earlier repairs are sloppy and it looks as though the shop used whatever parts were on hand There are still a lot of paper caps and old electrolytics that need to be changed. Many of the paper caps have been replaced with ceramic discs. Most of the tubes are replacements. I suspect the CRT has been replaced at some point but it checked good on my tester when I tried it again this morning. The chassis needs a really good cleaning but first I wanted to get the power supply working so I could test the set and find out if the major components were good.

The selenium rectifiers each had a silicon diode bridged across them, definitely not good workmanship. I replaced the rectifiers, two electrolytics, the caps across the AC line and the cord. I also installed a fuse holder so I can have some protection for the transformer from shorted caps.

I put the chassis in the cabinet and tried the set out. With the plate cap off of the horizontal output tube I got sound and tuned in my in-house analog station on channel five. I reconnected the HO tube and got a bright full raster and a decent picture. The tuner is seriously dirty but it looks quite good.

The first program I tuned in was I Love Lucy, seems appropriate for a 1952 TV. I wish the tube had a little more brightness but it is non aluminized so I suppose I shouldn't expect modern set brightness levels. Yes, the ion trap is adjusted correctly. Linearity and synch are good, tone is really warm from the large speaker. I think I have a really good one here. I just have to correct a lot of sloppy repairs and finish the recap.

[Geist]

Hi All;
Is the WAF better now that you have it somewhat working ??
THANK YOU Marty

[compucat]

Originally Posted by Geist

Hi All;
Is the WAF better now that you have it somewhat working ??
THANK YOU Marty

Not quite yet. She was tired of it sitting around with the finish half stripped and threatened to haul it to the curb. She was please yesterday when I said I was going to begin the restoration. Frankly, I am tired of it sitting around unrestored when I know what potential it has after it is done. My son asked if he could play Wii on it and have it in his room since the SPC set in his room has a failing picture tube. I don't think I will permit that since little kids are rough oboth furniture and electronics.

[holmesuser01]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I just checked and mine is a model 17-T-200, and it also has two RCA jacks on the back..

I had that exact set as my very first. I was around 9, and my uncle, who did TV service, gave it to me with the blessing of my parents, who knew I wouldn't kill myself messing with it. It came with a photofact, and my uncle was sure that I wouldn't get it running again.

I did get it running, and kept it for several years, until we moved to a new home in 1967.

Sure did bring back some GREAT memories looking at yours. I hadn't thought about that set in 30 years or more. Thank you for posting it!

I'd sure love to see more pictures of it.

[compucat]

I worked on this set some more today. I replaced some paper caps and corrected some of the previous replacements. I am surprised this set works as good as it does with the hack repairs that were done on it. In several places, paper caps were replaced with ceramics that were doubled up. One cap in the horizontal section was not even the correct value. You can see the pile of nasty parts I pulled out of this set and there is still many more to go. After this work I figured I had better run the set again to make sure I had not messed something up in the process. Much to my delight it still works and the brightness control has better range and the contrast control functions better. The tuner is extremely dirty but I will save that for towards the end. I watched part of a movie on it and it really is a great performer. I made good progress but have a long way to go before I am satisfied with it.

[kvflyer]

Great news! That picture looks good. Glad that it works so well now. The rest should be down hill. Please continue to let us know how it is going.

[compucat]

It has been a while since I worked on this set. MySaturdays have been taken up with other things and it has just been sitting. Today I decided to tackle the tuner. I am going to have to paint the chassis as my attempts to clean it are removing the plating and now it looks worse than just dirty. The tuner is a separate assembly bolted to the chassis and connected by a few wires. I thought unhooking the tuner and working just on that would be a good project for today. I took note of what wires go where and marked them since three of them are the same color. I ended up painting many of the metal housing parts because they would not clean up well. The silver paint I bought said metalic on the can which I assumed to be metal colored. It turns out to be metal flake. I'm not going to use this on the chassis. I will get some flat paint for that. It turned out alright nonetheless.

I have never seen a tuner assembly like this. The part with the detent is a separate removeable piece. The whole thing has incredible redundant shielding. You really have to disassemble it to clean the contacts. The tubes have individual shields plus the top of the tuner has a cover. There is no way you can just squirt some Deoxit through a hole in the shield and be sure of reaching all the wafer switches. I took the whole thing down, cleaned all the moving parts, regreased with some white lithium grease and put it back together. I am replacing the few parts on the back of the tuner terminal strip. I really want this set to be a good reliable performer.

My wife does not like the light colored finish on the cabinet. She says if I refinish it in a dark color I can put it in the living room. That suit me fine as It needs refinishing anyway, I prefer dark woods and I can park my 1937 Philco 37-610 radio on it. I have a DTV converter hooked to an agile modulator so this set will get over the air content the old fashioned way. I am also going to hook a Roku box to it for Netflix and Hulu. I am setting a goal to have this set fully restored andin daily service by Labor Day.

I will post some pics from my laptop. The iPad won't let me do it for some reason.

[compucat]

Here are some before and after pics of the tuner assembly.