New Purchase- Philco Transitone set!

[Eric H]

One other possibility comes to mind, if the Horiz Oscillator isn't running the Horiz Output tube will draw too much current, left in that situation for long it will overheat and short, sometimes taking out the Heater.

It sounds like the tube flared up and burned out immediately on turning the set on though, correct? In that case it's almost certain to be a problem in the Heater wiring.

[Magnavox300]

Okay, well after 2 months waiting for a tube tester, multi meter, and test light, I started back on this Philco Transitone set.
I was able to determine that 3 tubes were bad, replaced them, but still no light.
I took everything apart again, double checked my work, inspected more wires, everything looked good, so I put it back together, said an earnest prayer, now there's a nice bright screen!
I have no Idea what I did, so I will thank God!
It still has some lines, sometimes looks like a film negative when fine tuning it, and has a buzzing sound, the photo fact said to adjust the IF (A9) at the top of the chassis to get rid of the buzz, but the schematic shows that (A9) is actually in the middle of the chassis, a small hole just above the horizontal output tube.
I tried putting a small screwdriver inside of it, (I think it goes inside one of the aluminum rectangular cans), but I don't feel anything to adjust.
Anyone know how to adjust the IF ??

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Reece

The capacitor on that speaker was to eliminate the bass: the speaker was originally used as a tweeter or midrange. You could remove the cap and wire it direct.

That's probably a tweeter. You aren't going to be satisfied with the sound. The cone is too stiff.
I just repaired a 78 year old speaker cone. I cut the cone from a scrap speaker and used a piece to patch a large hole.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Magnavox300

Thought this set looked very cool, got it for $45.00
Everthing is there, and looks like a good project.
Took the chassis out, and was wondering if the wire going into the CRT looked right??
Also, The black is peeling off the CRT, anyone know what I should get to re paint it with, if it is a paint?

Magnavox300

The first episodes of Sanford and Son, they had a set like that. A burgler came in and set it outside to pick it up later.
It must've belonged to a collector, as it was complete. The set was only on one or two episodes. After that, they had incomplete Zenith sets.

[Eric H]

Originally Posted by Magnavox300

I tried putting a small screwdriver inside of it, (I think it goes inside one of the aluminum rectangular cans), but I don't feel anything to adjust.
Anyone know how to adjust the IF ??

You need some Plastic "Diddling Sticks" basically Plastic Allen wrenches to adjust the slugs. Don't try to use any metal tools in the slugs, the slugs will break if you do plus the metal will detune the coil.

Radio Shack may still carry the tools, (they wont call them Diddling Sticks).

[Eric H]

Here we go:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CORE-ALIGNME...item4abcaffc2c

[Don Lindsly]

For intermittent:

1. Make sure the printed circuit grounds are tight; 1/4 hex heads in the corners.

2. Make sure the tube sockets are OK. The holes sometimes get oversize. Pinch them back with a very sharp tool or replace the socket if you're looking for work.

3. The discriminator cans go bad. It should be buzz clean. If it will not adjust out, the can is probably bad.

4. Per above, a plastic tuning tool is essential.

[Magnavox300]

Thanks to all, great information.
I will be looking for those plastic tools.
This hobby requires more patience than I ever imagined....But I still love it.

Merry Christmas!!

Magnavox300

[Magnavox300]

Well, I just got the plastic alignment tools, a new old stock set for $8 all together with shipping....
nice to have them, I'm sure I'll need them in the future.

Adjustments did not make much of a difference in sound buzz, only slightly, so I wonder if the discriminator cans are bad? If so, are they impossible to find??
My first thought though is to check all the resistors for correct value.... some look very worn.
For example, there is a 2 watt resistor between the 100uf and 200uf caps, and it should be a 390ohm.
When I checked it, my meter read it at 489...

So, since I am still new to this hobby, how far off can values be? Is that one okay?
I would hate to change any resistors if not necessary, but thought some looked pretty old and worn.

[Magnavox300]

I guess I can answer my own question...
After a little research, I see there can be a slight tolerance, 5-10%,
depending on the band.
So with that said, I will replace that 390ohm, and any others that fall way out of value.
So far, that's the only one that read far off.

Magnavox300

[Magnavox300]

Okay, this Transitone is killing me....

I replace some resistors that were out of spec, and the picture is better.
But, I think what's going on mostly is there is a loud buzz or hum, I can't tell, and it is only present when you turn up the volume. I think the noise is interfering with the picture.
I checked all the tubes for shorts, they are fine.

The two largest electrolytic caps were valued at 200uf each... I used 220's. Would that be okay?
Also, I put two caps together to make a 40uf, I used a Sprague and a Illinois together, that wouldn't matter would it, using different brands? Both were pretty close to the same voltage.
Just wondering where that loud noise is coming from in the volume?

[bandersen]

Yes, 220 is fine and so is doubling up the caps as long as both meet or exceed the voltage rating specified.

I picked up the same set recently only with the UHF option. It's partially working on it's original parts, but the sound is barely audible

I wish I could offer more advice but I haven't had time to really work on it yet.