Silvertone 8106

[Tubejunke]

Originally Posted by Doug66

Well, after my last posting, I pulled the yoke off and hooked up to my 5" test CRT. I was rewarded with a raster but still no sound. Either something is amiss with the correct CRT in the cabinet or I turned up the wrong control for brightness when I made my initial power up.

See if the heater inside of the original CRT is lighting up. Many sets have loose CRT plugs and the pins often had poor soldering from the get go, so things start moving around and you get intermittent connections. If the plug is loose, then you can move it gently and the heater will light up, or should. You can then re-solder the pins and re bond the plug to the glass with a suitable adhesive. CRT rebuilders' of late used a silicone based material, but I'm not sure exactly what it is.

Either way, you don't want to leave a loose plug that way because you will eventually break a conductor possibly at the glass and you will be really messed up....

[Doug66]

Yes, it still has the original couplates. As of last night, I did not have a Sams, and had been trying to fix it blind. I was finally able to locate and order one. When it gets here, I'll work on the two couplates that appear to be in the sync area.

[Doug66]

My Sams arrived today. The other night, I made some good progress. I foun that by putting slight pressure on the tunershaft, the pic and signal would clear up. Cleaning the tuner wafer switches didn't help, but I poked around and bent up one of the lugs on one of the wafer switches, and that seemed to clear up the issue.

During a 30 min bench test, the pic stayed pretty stable except it lost horiz sync twice. With the Sams here, I will start rebuilding the copulate in the Sync Coupling.

One question, one of the mica caps in this copulate is a 150pf10%. Then it says N1500. What would the 1500 stand for?

[old_coot88]

When you get the Sams, see if the set uses a 3-legged dual diode for the horiz AFC. If so, it probably is the cause of weak H sync and needs replacing.
It's in a little rectangular potted casing, and most common type is common-cathode (vs. series-connected).

[Doug66]

This set doesn't have the 3 legged dual diode. After two bench tests tonight, I find that after about 10-15 min, it really loses horiz sync so much that it can't be corrected with the horiz hold control. I end up tweeking the horiz waveform slug.

Most of the parts in the horiz circuit are part of a 15 piece copulate, so I guess I will have to rebuild it as well as the sync copulate. This one uses two 8000pf caps as well as one 8200pf. All I can find are 8200s. I hope that will work. I'm going to start gathering parts tonight and see what I need to order.

[Doug66]

I've been gathering the necessary parts to rebuild the couplates. I went ahead and rebuilt K5 which is the Horiz coupling. However after installing the new unit, still no change. When I 1st power it up, there is no horiz sync, and the horiz hold has to be turned about 5 times to sync it. AT this point, I have a full pic but jittery. Within about a min or 2, it loses sync, and the hold as to be retweeked about 1/3 turn every 10 seconds. Finally it gets to where it will not lock, and I have to touch the underside of the coil which is B1. At this point, the horiz hold has been rotated about 5 turns, and the pic does not fill the left side of the screen. After I shut it off and it cools down, I then have to put the hold back in it's original position to get a lock.

On the 6CG7, plate at pin 6 is about 190V, grid on pin 2 is about -30. Plate on pin 1 is about 155. Have tried another 6CG7. Voltages are ok on 12AV5G output. I have another output tube on order.

[TerrySmith]

Look at the ID tag on the chassis, there's a number such as 528.xxxxxxx. The 528 (or other number) indicates manufacturer, 528 being Warwick.

Warwick built the lions share of Sears / Silvertone products until around the mid 1970's when Sears started using Japanese products.

[EdKozk2]

Doug,
What is the exact model number for this set. I ask because when I look up
Sears-Silvertone in the Sam's index for 8106 , it lists Folder 35-20. Folder 35-20 is from the 1940's. The chassis number seems to be more important with Sears products.
Ed

[Doug66]

Sorry about being so long in replying. My model is 8106, and that is what the sticker inside the cabinet says. My Sams 389-3 has it listed by the chassis, which is 528.50124. Both numbers are also on the back of the set.

I did make a little progress. R38, and 8200 ohm @ 2W was bad. I had replaced it earlier, but during a bench test, I had walked out of the room. When I got back the horiz was way off sync and squeeling, and that resistor was frying. It still checked good, so I left it in place not realizing that's when those horiz problems started. I put a new on in, and that kept the horiz from drifting ever few seconds.

It is still touchy and keeps losing sync, but I just have to bump the hold to correct it. Sound has also gotten weak. I tried doing an alignment on the audio using the instructions in the Sams, and that's didn't help. I then noticed when I would stick the alignment tool in the top of A8 (L15) the sound would get louder for a brief second.

A7/8 (L15) is a 4.5MC trap and also a Sound IF. It has two 33pf capacitors in parallel with it. I'm thinking maybe these have gone bad, so I've got some on order. The bottom slug on the coil is also stuck. I checked with Moyers, but so far they haven't found one yet.

My Sams only list the Silvertone number for the coil 10-120-1. Haven't been able to find a cross reference for that number yet.

[EdKozk2]

The Sam's index I'm using has an error. The Silvertone 528.,,,
chassis shows up as 389-3. The 8106 number lists that other
Sam, folder 35-20.
Ed

[Doug66]

Sams 389-3 is correct. You must have the same index I do because I had trouble finding it.

[WISCOJIM]

The Sams 35-20 covers an earlier Silvertone model 8106 radio/phono console. Sears reused numbers on many of their products.

[Doug66]

My 33pf caps arrived today which are C35 and C37. I installed them across
L15, but that made no difference. Moyers has located me a Miller replacement for L15, and that should be here by the 1st of next week. Audio is still very weak, and horizontal still loses sync. The bottom slug on my L15 is stuck, so I'm hoping a new coil will help.

[Username1]

I like the Corvair convertible.....

.

[Doug66]

I think I have fixed the audio. I started checking voltages, which were way off on the 5AQ5 audio output. R44, 560 ohm 1W going to pin 6 was open. Didn't have a new one, but I tacked in 2 units in series to give me around 570. Sound is much better but not perfect. I think when I get that new coil in, the sound will improve as I adjust it.