Why no love for this GE roundie ? - Page 12 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

tvcollector · #**166** 12-26-2014, 11:11 PM

Here's a pic of the bulb looking through the openings with the knobs off.. I don't think it's a #47... it looks to be a #159 or #259 ..

Electronic M · #**167** 12-26-2014, 11:21 PM

If I were you, and still lived in Florida I take that bulb to Skycraft Surplus in Orlando. They had a good stock of bulbs and various useful parts...Of course it has been ~5 years since I've been there.

tvcollector · #**168** 12-26-2014, 11:44 PM

Orlando is over a 3 hour drive each way for me.. Orlando does have a great place that sells vacuum tubes.. I was able to order up all the ones needed for this set, on top of that NIB and GE branded tubes.. I'm sure Dave knows about this place and is a frequent visitor... We do have a Light Bulbs Unlimited here.. I think they carry rare bulbs.. I got an old projector bulb from them before.. I could try them before finding somewhere online..

tvcollector · #**169** 01-05-2015, 05:35 PM

I'm getting a few film caps that the sams calls for, but when I pull the cap, it's a different value.. For instance: Sams says C58 is a .047 300v but I pulled the cap out and looked at it and it reads .022 200v... I'm not sure if this was replaced at one time with a value that's close enough, or if the Sams is wrong..

Some of these caps from mouser is questionable... I'm looking at a replacement compared to one that's installed in the set, and it's tiny compared to the original in the set.. All others are about the same size or slightly bigger or smaller than the original caps.. I don't think I want to install some of these tiny caps...

So far I replaced about 4 or 5 of them, and did a power up test and set is fine.. I didn't make any mistakes...

Electronic M · #**170** 01-05-2015, 06:55 PM

Unless they are obvious replacements, go with the values in the set. Sam's folders don't always show all the production changes, and has been known to have typos/inaccuracies.

Newer caps, especially lytics, tend to be smaller. If the voltage and capacitance ratings on the replacement are legible and correct then it should be fine.

tvcollector · #**171** 01-05-2015, 07:31 PM

I've replaced alot of the caps.. Comes to find out on my example up there, I ended up puting a cap in the wrong spot.. The Sams shows one being a ceramic cap, and actually in the set is a film cap, and that was throwing me off track.. So far I've replaced a total of 7 film caps, and the electrolytic on that board being 8, and I don't notice a significant change, both the vert height and HV adjustments are still maxed out.. The HV probe still shows a digit over 20 kv with the HV setting maxed out, not sure if that is fine or not... And the vert height still drifts ever so slightly after set has been on for a while, the bottom blackness rises up ever so slightly.. Found out the popping noise was coming from one of the convergence board wires being near the anode.. I moved it out from around that area and the popping went away.. I ended up cleaning the anode and the shunt tube and HV compartment with rubbing alcohol.. I haven't started on the electrolytic filter caps yet.. I wonder if I will notice a difference once those are replaced... This will be a bit of a project, and looks like I will need to take reference photos before I unmount each..

zeno · #**172** 01-05-2015, 07:56 PM

They are #159 or #259 Zeniths used tuns of them over the yrs.
The "wrong" bulb will either be brighter or dimmer. Also
its life will be shorter or longer !

73 Zeno

tvcollector · #**173** 01-05-2015, 10:50 PM

I don't think I'm able to get to the cans.. The tabs are soldered to the chassis, and my soldering irons are not able to heat the solder up hot enough to where I can even flow the solder around, so I can get out the globs of solder and twist the tabs to loosen the cans.. So many wires in that area, it's very hard to be careful without damaging them with the soldering iron... It's also very hard to even remove the wires.. Thought to myself once I start there is no going back... I didn't get any leads off, so I gave up and hooked the set back up..

Another option I could do is just leave the cans in and unhook them and installed the electrolytics under, but then where do the neg leads to each cap go? to the chassis ground?

I ended up restuffing the electrolytic on the horz/vert board, under the orange cardboard there is a can, took the hack saw and did a hack job on cutting the can open, I drilled holes through the bottom and soldered the new cap to the leads, tried to get out as much tar as possible, ended up making a big mess. It's all back on, but cardboard cover is very loose... Probably should have tried to use paint thinner.. Maybe I will if I can get the other caps off..

Electronic M · #**174** 01-06-2015, 12:29 AM

As for the cap negatives they may or may not go to the chassis. If the cans mount to phenolic insulating wafers then the negatives do not connect to chassis and you will have to trace where they go, to look for any convienient tie points for the new caps, or run a new wire.

It is not uncommon to have chassis negative and insulated negative cans together on the same chassis so you will have to ascertain negative connections on a can by can basis.

Findm-Keepm · #**175** 01-06-2015, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvcollector

I've replaced alot of the caps.. Comes to find out on my example up there, I ended up puting a cap in the wrong spot.. The Sams shows one being a ceramic cap, and actually in the set is a film cap, and that was throwing me off track..

Keep in mind that Sams' part numbering is NOT the same as the manufacturers parts numbering. GE may call one cap C1, and Sams will most certainly call another cap C1. Use the Sams photos to match up the caps to the Sams schematic/parts list. Sams is not infallible, as it is only a snapshot of one TV in the entire production of many thousands of TVs, with production changes that Sams doesn't always have access to.

Cheers,

Findm-Keepm · #**176** 01-06-2015, 11:01 AM

I've got a couple of 159 bulbs headed your way, I've got 7 here.

Cheers,

tvcollector · #**177** 01-06-2015, 12:28 PM

Thanks Findm-Keepm.. I actually have gotten a package of 159 bulbs off eBay last week, and a package of 259 coming.. But I don't mind having a few to spare for future sets..

Adam

tvcollector · #**178** 01-06-2015, 09:15 PM

Whats the best method to remove Tar from the can? I have Acetone and it doesn't seem to do any good.. At this time of night? What would Walmart have?

Electronic M · #**179** 01-06-2015, 09:35 PM

If you don't have the cap guts out and think removing the tar is the easiest way to get them free, then I have a little tip for you.

Once you have the bottom of the can with the terminals removed take an ordinary cork screw and screw it into the center of the dielectric/foil roll. Once the cork screw is in fairy deep grab the top half of the can in one hand, and the cork screw in the other and give it a good yank. the guts of the can should come out, and you can then chip the remaining tar out with a screw driver, or other methods like chemicals (goof off might work) or heat.

rca2000 · #**180** 01-06-2015, 09:43 PM

If they are metal cans...HEAT would be the best way...