Sony KV-34HS510 Just Followed Me Home!

[holmesuser01]

I was given this set last week. I was told by the owner that it worked just fine, but didn't get to plug it in to verify this. It uses the DA4 chassis.

Naturally, it does not work. 175 pounds of dead weight.

When I power it up, it attempts to start up, then shuts down. The power indicator flashes red.. seven times, and repeats.

From what I've seen online, I'm being told to replace two 18 pin IC chips... numbers 8002, and 6501. Both of them are MCZ3001D chips. The ones in the set are originals. These IC's are known to fail on these sets. The rest of the set is clean inside. I have no idea if the CRT is weak or anything about it, as my CRT tester can't do tests on it.

A fuzzy picture is included here. The IC's mentioned are just above and below the HV anode wire in the left side of the picture. Sorry for the quality.

I have a pair of these chips coming as I tell you about this set. The replacements are the updated version... same part, but has a B stamped after the part number.

I've got the chassis pulled from the set, and removed the "D" board... the one with the flyback, and am waiting for the chips to arrive. I was going to clean the chassis while I have it out, but on looking it over, it's perfectly clean. I'm fairly sure I'm the first one to be inside this set.

While I wait, I have questions: Is this thing reliable? I read some old reviews for it, and people thought it had a great picture. Of course, this was in 2003-2004, when it was new. I'd really like to get the opinions of my friends here at VK.

What do you think?

[Zenith26kc20]

be careful of the chip supplier (no chinese sellers on our favorite site). Install sockets when you replace the chips. They are a known failure problem. If your set has the "fine pitch" CRT it can produce an incredible picture.
And, yes, that set is "theft proof!" Also good for Medieval pressing torture!

[zeno]

We did lots of IC jobs on all the Sony wide screens. The
only other thing was one flyback job.
I would strongly suggest you put in IC sockets, they will go again.
I had one & it needed its 4th set IIRC. I got rid of it,
getting to old to wrestle it in & out of the entertainment center.
As far as pix goes I think its better than the new sets,
nothing like a CRT to give a natural picture.

73 Zeno

[holmesuser01]

The replacement chips come with a pair of 18 pin sockets. I'm planning to use them.

I have to practice de-soldering. It's been years since I've replaced any IC's.

[Marco-nix]

Originally Posted by holmesuser01

The replacement chips come with a pair of 18 pin sockets. I'm planning to use them.

I have to practice de-soldering. It's been years since I've replaced any IC's.

If you have a good desoldering pump, you should be able to do it easily.

[holmesuser01]

Originally Posted by Marco-nix

If you have a good desoldering pump, you should be able to do it easily.

Don't have a desoldering pump. Only have some wick material.

[Marco-nix]

Originally Posted by holmesuser01

Don't have a desoldering pump. Only have some wick material.

If you only repair for metal circuits, probably not but if you also repair some circuit boards . you absolutely need this tool ..This tool will make a better job

[Geoff Bourquin]

I usually use wick. One caution: be careful you don't accidently unsolder any of the surface mount components close to the chips. I only did it once, but it took me an hour to figure out which one I had accidently removed and what it was. I eventually found it stuck to my used wick. Also, I find it helps to add a bit of good 'ol 60/40 solder to the connections on the old chips THEN wick it off. Seems to wick up a lot better that way. By the time that set was made they were using lead free solder, and that stuff just doesn't seem to wick up well

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by Geoff Bourquin

I Also, I find it helps to add a bit of good 'ol 60/40 solder to the connections on the old chips THEN wick it off. Seems to wick up a lot better that way. By the time that set was made they were using lead free solder, and that stuff just doesn't seem to wick up well

+1 to this - the lead free stuff is a pain. Use either Eutectic (63/37) or 60/40 solder to add a bit to the existing solder, and the wick sucks it up much easier.

[holmesuser01]

Looking at the board, theres not much crowding going on around the IC's.

If I was going to start replacing a bunch of IC's again, I might buy a vacuum for the solder.

I used to have one, but the rubber vacuum bulb started leaking.

[holmesuser01]

EUREKA!! It works!

I took advice from you guys and added a bit of real solder to the connections on the IC's before wicking it off. That worked just fine.

The new IC's are working as they should.

See some bad pictures below. The screen image is much better than what you are seeing here.

While I was under there, I resoldered the flyback, the horizontal driver transformer, and the horizontal output transistor.

I also touched up the soldering on the CRT board.

This set has seen very light use.

[Marco-nix]

Just to see your pictures set. the colors are very beautiful .. I guess you should keep this set Bruce.

Denis.

[Marco-nix]

I saw a nice tool for the IC's on eBay but i forgot the name this tool is specially made to desolder IC's without problems and don't affect the surface mount component...

[Dude111]

Originally Posted by Marco-nix

Just to see your pictures set. the colors are very beautiful .. I guess you should keep this set Bruce.

Denis.

Yes VERY GOOD!!!!!!!!!!


We knew you could do it buddy!!!!

[holmesuser01]

I've got it in my living room now. I got lucky and TWO friends dropped by at the same time. They wrestled the thing up off the floor for me. It's working just fine. I let it run for 24 hours straight. No problems at all.