Admiral PL17F33B "Thinman" TV CRT

[vt105]

I always liked the "suitcase" style portables.

Just received thru E*** and this is how it arrived.

The rear took a hard hit and destroyed the CRT

Does anyone have a spare 17DSP4 they want to sell ?

Are there other subs that would work IE predicta 17" ? I realize the 2.68 filament and base layout are different but all other specs seem correct

The seller assured me he would pack it well....... It was except for the back

The big three shippers can be brutal as well. Makes me want to stay away from future tv purchases but there are so many just begging to be rescued

[Electronic M]

I own one just like it. Should be an easy-ish restore (save for the sweep sub-chassis) once you find a jug.

[Adam]

I saw that one, and just almost bid on it.

Here's another one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Admi...item3d0430c43d

But this quote from the description doesn't exactly inspire confidence, "it does turn on and make popping and crackling noises."

[dieseljeep]

To make the sets slimmer, the back cover was designed to have very little clearence between the CRT protrusion and the socket, base of the CRT. The plastic back has a certain amount of give, where it will break the CRT neck, if subjected to a direct drop on its back.
Most people don't know how to properly pack an item like this.
This is the second time, in days, where an almost irreplaceable CRT has been damaged.

[Sandy G]

Damn... HATE that.. These shipping companies DON'T realize how MUCH of the stuff that WE like, is NEARLY "Unobtainium".. They will re-imburse, but THAT's NOT the point..Grrrrr...

[vt105]

Elec M chassis does seem to be quite basic although at the moment I have lost all interest

Adam thanks for the link although I'm still a little gun shy if you get my drift.
Not to mention snap, crackle, & pop.

Djeep you are sooo right about the back and packing thing. I sure hope I can land a crt although it is a bit unusual

Sandy they are brutal to say the least but just a little more care on the packing would help.

Automated sorting equipment doesn't read "Fragile Glass, or This End Up"

[decojoe67]

Sorry to read that.
Sometimes I really want something online that has to be shipped, but I basically have stopped getting anything shipped. Even packed well they usually show signs of taking extremely hard jolts. I had one tombstone radio sent, packed well, that had the bottom panel broken out of the cabinet with the power transformer nearly crushed down into the chassis! Now go TRY to do that! You'd have to get on your roof and drop the set straight down to the ground.
Small bakelite items cracked, records, even vinyl, cracked. I just stick to local collectors and shows.

[Olorin67]

A ot of shippers dont know how to pack properly, or dont know special requirements of certain items-Turntables with heavy platters, need to have the platter taken off and wrapped separately, for example.. Then there are a few items where the design of the item makes them especially hard to ship successfully- some items just don't handle the way packages are handled these days. The little RCA 45 changers are a great example. The later RP-190's usually survive, but the RP-168 attachments- the ones with the metal tonearm rarely survive intact. The heavy changer chassis is attached to the Bakelite case with 3 screws. so one good shock in shipping and the chassis breaks away from the cabinet, often wrecking the Bakelite cabinet. If you're lucky, just the mounting posts break and you can still re-glue them, but usually cracks go all the way through the cabinet. The packaging needs to absorb sudden shocks, not easy to get right. The one I bought lucked out and just the internal posts were broken, and I was able to save it. It was well packed otherwise, and there was no external damage to the package.
I've seen boomboxes arrive with the power transformer broken away from the circuit board.

[Sandy G]

I learned The HARD way on how to pack, back in the Nineties. I was in a program where we got addresses of folks in Eastern Europe & reached out to them. The woman I got had 2 daughters I sent 'em a BUNCH of Barbie dolls & stuff. She her family were in Estonia, which was REASONABLY well "Civilised", compared to other places in Eastern Yoorup...They got EVERYTHING I sent 'em. Wished I'd kept up w/them.

[vt105]

Well after some back and forth with the seller I finally received a partial refund.

I took the chassis out and decided to see if it had any life left in it in case I ever come across a CRT.

The auction had stated the "smoke" was let out. It has some burnt wires and questionable repairs from the past.

It will not power up.

If someone could provide a schematic for this set that would be great. Model PL 17F33B Chassis 15D1B

Admiral schematic or photofact 471-1 I just need the schematic.

I also have decided to obtain an 8YP4 test CRT. I have a couple of Predicta holiday chassis that could benefit from this CRT also.

This is the correct CRT right ?

In the interim being a series set (admiral 6.3 v) what size resistor should I use to complete the heater string from the missing CRT.

Also if anyone has a 8YP4 they want to sell please let me know. I know there is one on E*** but untested

Thanks,
Bill

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by vt105

Well after some back and forth with the seller I finally received a partial refund.

I took the chassis out and decided to see if it had any life left in it in case I ever come across a CRT.

The auction had stated the "smoke" was let out. It has some burnt wires and questionable repairs from the past.

It will not power up.

If someone could provide a schematic for this set that would be great. Model PL 17F33B Chassis 15D1B

Admiral schematic or photofact 471-1 I just need the schematic.

I also have decided to obtain an 8YP4 test CRT. I have a couple of Predicta holiday chassis that could benefit from this CRT also.

This is the correct CRT right ?

In the interim being a series set (admiral 6.3 v) what size resistor should I use to complete the heater string from the missing CRT.

Also if anyone has a 8YP4 they want to sell please let me know. I know there is one on E*** but untested

Thanks,
Bill

The 8YP4 is the correct CRT for testing the Admiral.
IIRC, the pin-out for the Philco CRT is different. You'd have to make some kind of adaptor.
A 10 ohm 5 watt resistor can be used to complete the series string. I always used to just jumper the socket. The slight overvoltage will be distributed through the rest of the tubes.

[tom.j.fla]

Hi, 17EBP4 & 17EFP4 are the same size same pinout, but with a 450ma. heater. A42 ohm 3 watt resistor across the crt heater will make up the 150 ma current diferance. All the best,tom.j.fla

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by vt105

Well after some back and forth with the seller I finally received a partial refund.

I took the chassis out and decided to see if it had any life left in it in case I ever come across a CRT.

The auction had stated the "smoke" was let out. It has some burnt wires and questionable repairs from the past.

It will not power up.

If someone could provide a schematic for this set that would be great. Model PL 17F33B Chassis 15D1B

Admiral schematic or photofact 471-1 I just need the schematic.

I also have decided to obtain an 8YP4 test CRT. I have a couple of Predicta holiday chassis that could benefit from this CRT also.

This is the correct CRT right ?

In the interim being a series set (admiral 6.3 v) what size resistor should I use to complete the heater string from the missing CRT.

Also if anyone has a 8YP4 they want to sell please let me know. I know there is one on E*** but untested

Thanks,
Bill

I was just trying to remember if the 8YP4 has the RCA or Sylvania/Zenith style base. They refer to S/Z type as the shell base. If it has the shell base, you have to find or make up an adaptor to use the tube in an Admiral.

[vt105]

tom j & diesel thanks for your guidance.

Meanwhile I found the 50 ohm 20 watt wire wound shorted to the chassis.
Disconnected the load still nothing. Then found the on/off switch open.

Jumped it out and now have strong B+ Need to order some to restore filament string
Will these work ?

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...000-/48-005000

Or should I go with chassis mount ?