I finally got one!!! Philco Predicta

[static1701]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

If the tubular caps are original order those too at a minimum (parts to rebuild the K networks/couplates and resistors for the mainboard are also advisable).

Those plastic-bodied caps leak current (which is probably what is wrong with the vertical) bulge/crack then smoke and or explode...I just did full and partial (if I plan to sell a set for whatever I'll get paid for it I don't throw much money at it) recaps on 2 10L43 predictas and both had either cracked bulged plastic caps on the board or developed them in under 10min of operation...

I always replace all the caps when I restore something, they always end up causing issues. I just figured I would start with the cans.

I will end up replacing everything that is out of spec, I don't plan to ever part with this set. What concerns me the most is the condition of the flyback. It is not arcing or anything, but the wax is cracked. I wonder if I can just re-coat it?

Oh and I noticed tonight that the "Philco" label on the front is not missing, it just has some tape covering it.

[decojoe67]

Originally Posted by static1701

Nope, it does not. I have to keep it pressed by hand. I will take it apart and fix that.

Good luck with that. It seems a little tricky to do. I just added a old bakelite switch onto the power cord.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by static1701

I always replace all the caps when I restore something, they always end up causing issues. I just figured I would start with the cans.

I will end up replacing everything that is out of spec, I don't plan to ever part with this set. What concerns me the most is the condition of the flyback. It is not arcing or anything, but the wax is cracked. I wonder if I can just re-coat it?

Oh and I noticed tonight that the "Philco" label on the front is not missing, it just has some tape covering it.

I wasn't planning to sell my debutante either but me and a friend went halfsies on a parts debutante that he needed the tuner and speaker off of...the parts set had a mostly better cabinet than mine so I swapped parts to make a really nice keeper Deb and a beat up working tuner-less Deb with an AV input to sell...I'm stupid low on space right now so doubles and some junk in my collection needs to go.
When you get a good chance to upgrade to a nicer specimen on the cheap why not?

[static1701]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I wasn't planning to sell my debutante either but me and a friend went halfsies on a parts debutante that he needed the tuner and speaker off of...the parts set had a mostly better cabinet than mine so I swapped parts to make a really nice keeper Deb and a beat up working tuner-less Deb with an AV input to sell...I'm stupid low on space right now so doubles and some junk in my collection needs to go.
When you get a good chance to upgrade to a nicer specimen on the cheap why not?

Space is an issue for me, can't park on my side of the garage anymore. If I die before my wife... she will get more from my vintage computers and electronics than the life insurance

I really wanted one of the barber pole ones, but this one came up at a great price and I could not pass it up. Normally they cost an arm and a leg for "untested and molested". I can see parting one out if the cabinet is not nice. If I run across a NOS CRT or even another set... I would get it for spare parts. Once I get it restored, I will use it but not daily so I figure it should last the rest of my life..

[judge]

Originally Posted by static1701

... What concerns me the most is the condition of the flyback. It is not arcing or anything, but the wax is cracked. I wonder if I can just re-coat it?

I'm surprised someone hasn't jumped in with 'Re-coat it with corona dope' yet. So far I haven't had to do that, so I have no personal experience of it. Personally I would fix everything else before I did that - those fine wires coming off the transformer look very delicate.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by judge

I'm surprised someone hasn't jumped in with 'Re-coat it with corona dope' yet. So far I haven't had to do that, so I have no personal experience of it. Personally I would fix everything else before I did that - those fine wires coming off the transformer look very delicate.

Sensor safe RTV silicone from your local Auto parts store is also a good option...I've recoated 25KV color TV flybacks with it with good results.

[bandersen]

Every Predicta flyback I've seen looks like that. It's just the old coating cracking. No cause for concern.

I have recoated some with sensor safe RTV silicone and some with corona dope. Both work well.

[static1701]

Originally Posted by bandersen

Every Predicta flyback I've seen looks like that. It's just the old coating cracking. No cause for concern.

I have recoated some with sensor safe RTV silicone and some with corona dope. Both work well.

That is great! I will just leave it alone. I got a shipping notice for the capacitors today.. Can't wit to get them and get started on restoration.

[TVTim]

Congratulations on your find!

[static1701]

Starting the re-cap today (and cleaning)

[static1701]

Replaced C1 C2 and C3 this restored brightness but did not solve the deflection issue. I will figure that out next.

I fixed the power switch, inside is a little brass piece that gets turned when you press the putton, it has 2 little "tabs" that stick up and grab the part that turns. On mine the 2 little tabs were bent down and we just about flat. I pushed them back up (And ran the little screwdriver into my thumb). The little thing that turns now makes contact and the power switch works!

I did make a mistake when changing C2, I had 2 of the wires wrong, one is blue and one is green and I had them connected to the wrong place. Got some smoke from a resistor when I was bringing up the power and stopped to find the mistake. That blue wire is ground and the green is not. Did not seem to cause any damage.

The picture is with the lights on in the garage, it was too dim to see the screen with the lights on before.

[static1701]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

Let me know if you need Networks for this set.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/

Just ordered them, I think the vertical integrator is causing my issue.

Thanks

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by static1701

Just ordered them, I think the vertical integrator is causing my issue.

Thanks

With all those tubular caps on the board in your last pic the vertical would not work right even with new integrators...I just did a couple of these sets that were producing raster but had terrible vertical non-linearly and the paper caps were causing it....one even split open and started smoking while I was diagnosing the issue.

[static1701]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

With all those tubular caps on the board in your last pic the vertical would not work right even with new integrators...I just did a couple of these sets that were producing raster but had terrible vertical non-linearly and the paper caps were causing it....one even split open and started smoking while I was diagnosing the issue.

I ordered all the replacement caps today. I had to get the Factory service manual because the numbers on the board did not match the numbers in the Sams parts list. I am debating removing the board from the chassis or just clip and solder. I don't really care about keeping it original... I just want it to work correctly.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by static1701

I ordered all the replacement caps today. I had to get the Factory service manual because the numbers on the board did not match the numbers in the Sams parts list. I am debating removing the board from the chassis or just clip and solder. I don't really care about keeping it original... I just want it to work correctly.

If it is a 10L43 with holes under the PCB like mine you can split the difference... leave all the wires connected, remove all the hold down screws on the board, unscrew the vertical transformer, and lift the fingers that he the wires to the chassis...you can lift the board enough to get to all the pads underneath through the holes with a thin iron....you can leave all the wires connected this way.