GE Porta Color model id help and future repair help

[john116]

Hi - am trying to initially identify the correct model/chassis for this GE Portacolor (pictures below), and also find service information.

It currently partially works, with a few issues as noted below (note also, am in Australia, so using a step down power transformer, and also a digital set top box with a UHF output on channel 26, in NTSC format, sound carrier set at 4.5Mhz.

1) Picture is watchable on screen, but lacking in colour, turning colour control down gives black and white picture, turning it full up, give only the faintest hint of colour. Colour appears to be correct. Tint control doesn't seem to do anything although this may be due to colour problem.

2) The AC power cord is very loose on the pins in the TV? It may be the wrong cord. I notice the back panel of the TV mentions interlock, how did this work? Is the power cord supposed to be attached to the TV panel back?


So aside from the color issue, I have a mostly stable picture with sound.

Any help greatly appreciated.

[etype2]

Model # WHE5265CO with slot mask.

[AlanInSitges]

I'm not sure about the color problem, but you assume correctly that the line cord is supposed to be captive in the cabinet back so it disconnects when you remove it. There is usually a squared-off C clip inside the cabinet back that's pretty easy to pry out. You can kind of see one in place here.

Your set has the HE chassis, which is somewhat improved from the very first version, and I believe also has an all purpose-made CRT instead of the first-generation's 25-inch shadow mask that was cut down to make it fit. The Sams is 1384-1.

Those sets suffer from bad solder connections on the PC board; you might try tapping around on it and see what you can turn up.

[john116]

Hi - thanks for the cord picture. It would appear I might have the wrong cord for the TV as the 'body' of the part that plugs into the TV is way shorter than in the picture. I can only make it work with the back off, otherwise it doesn't make contact with the pins. I guess I'll have to find one..

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by AlanInSitges

I'm not sure about the color problem, but you assume correctly that the line cord is supposed to be captive in the cabinet back so it disconnects when you remove it. There is usually a squared-off C clip inside the cabinet back that's pretty easy to pry out. You can kind of see one in place here.

Your set has the HE chassis, which is somewhat improved from the very first version, and I believe also has an all purpose-made CRT instead of the first-generation's 25-inch shadow mask that was cut down to make it fit. The Sams is 1384-1.

Those sets suffer from bad solder connections on the PC board; you might try tapping around on it and see what you can turn up.

I used to hate those things with a passion, because those things had such a rotten picture. They worked fairly good for what they were.
Right now, they are a important part of color TV history!
The AC power cord is polarized type, with one pin larger and one smaller. It's even more important one the connector end. Someone is using a non-polarized cord that doesn't fit right.
In my collection, I have three P'colors in my collection, two HE5's and one HD, low focus volts CRT. All three work very well and are in good condition.
BTW, the older model HD, the original power cord was missing. While driving home, I located a discarded B/W solid state GE portable that had a power cord on it that made my set complete.
That's my side of the story and I'm sticking with it.

[AlanInSitges]

Protip current-day power cords from razors and some other small appliances with an end like this will work just fine in non-polarized sets. You can "polarize" one but running one of the screws from the cabinet back into the corresponding hole to stretch it out. These will fit just fine into the slot on the back of the set, no need for a clip.

These guys also sell replacements.

Good luck with the color!

[john116]

Many thanks all!

Originally Posted by AlanInSitges

Protip current-day power cords from razors and some other small appliances with an end like this will work just fine in non-polarized sets. You can "polarize" one but running one of the screws from the cabinet back into the corresponding hole to stretch it out. These will fit just fine into the slot on the back of the set, no need for a clip.

These guys also sell replacements.

Good luck with the color!

[bgadow]

Your Portacolor is very late in the production run. These were quite popular; a lot of set for the money. Today they make a great way to collect tube color sets, what with such a tiny footprint.

[dtvmcdonald]

Remember that wrong fine tuning and ruin color level

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by bgadow

Your Portacolor is very late in the production run. These were quite popular; a lot of set for the money. Today they make a great way to collect tube color sets, what with such a tiny footprint.

Sharp came out with small color set about six months later after to first P/C.
It was a 13" model that sold under the badges of Wards Airline, Midland and even Motorola. The picture was superior, but they didn't stand up as well as the GE P/C.
The Midland model sold for $188.00.

[john116]

For the colour issue, the picture looks more or less fine with colour control turned down. With it up, I get colour as per pictures below. The tint control seems to make the problem worse, rather than actually adjusting the tint.

[Electronic M]

It looks like the green color video is absent. I also wonder if the chroma burst ringing circuit is getting the right freq burst and if it is ringing at the correct frequency.
If the color ringer is dead or off frequency that should cause the tint adjustment to not produce noticable change in tint.

[Popester]

It also appears that you might have an AC filter cap issue with that line. Is it floating from the bottom to the top and repeating?

[john116]

No floating as far as I can see....

Originally Posted by Popester

It also appears that you might have an AC filter cap issue with that line. Is it floating from the bottom to the top and repeating?