GE 810 Restoration

[Crist Rigott]

More progress.

I did V3, V4, V5 the IF tubes, V7 the Video Amp, V17 the Vertical Multivibrator, and V18 the Vertical Output tube.

I decided to use the "coil" method on the 7 and 9 pin tube sockets. I didn't want to damage them. I did completely remove the component from the 8 pin tube sockets and terminal strips.

[Crist Rigott]

This evening I finished the recap.

I then replaced all the tubes and used my variac to power it up while monitoring B+ and current draw.

I got a picture and some faint audio. I haven't done a thing to the tuner and that will be next. Very flaky.

Here are some pictures of the completed underside and a picture of the CRT picture.

Getting there.

[JohnCT]

No, I think that's the way Jack Klugman looks...

Wow, unbelievably neat work.

I'm actually surprised it's not performing better given all the new parts installed. The good news the tube looks fairly strong.

John

[Crist Rigott]

Tim Allen.

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

Tim Allen.

Lol, in that case it needs more work!!

John

[Crist Rigott]

OK, I found the problem with the lousy video.

I removed the tuner and cleaned it, used some Deoxit on the wafer switches, lubed it and checked all the resistors. All the resistors checked good. I had replacements pulled from my stock, but decided to leave well enough alone. Some of the resistors were pretty well buried. Reinstalled the tuner and sure enough same lousy video!

I directly injected video signal at the 1st video amp and got a decent picture. However the H and V holds were very touchy!

So I knew my problem was from the tuner through the IF section. I decided to do a resistance check. Sure enough pin 2 of V6 the 6AL5 tube showed 5K when it should be 3.5M. There is a typo on the resistance chart for V7 the 12AU7 pin 6. The chart shows 48K but should be 4.8K. V3, V4, V5 pin 5 shows the resistance should be 13K, but I measured 1.5K. I'm guessing another typo. I flipped the chassis over and confirmed that I had installed the right 3.9M R60 Sams. Then I notice that coil L16 was pressed down and touching pin 2. Bingo! I then added some insulation to the lead of coil L16 to prevent that from happening.

I now have a decent picture, some sound with a lot of buzzing/hum, and a very stable H and V hold circuits. I also measure the HV at 10 to 10.9KV depending on where the "Brightness" control is at. The Contrast control seems to work but is touchy and the picture disappears pretty quickly after about 1/3 down from full contrast.

I now need to check the alignment and get the audio where it should be. Then set up the focus coil/centering magnets, picture size and linearities. I have to look into adding the blanking circuit and the rest of the changes that are listed in Riders.

[Crist Rigott]

I added the blanking circuit according to Riders C3-2. I relocated the yellow wire (pin 11) and added the 24K resistor. I added another terminal strip and added the other caps and resistor. Then added a yellow wire to the VOT. This mod worked great!








I then added a circuit also shown in Riders C3-2. This added bias to V2 to help eliminate audio buzzing.

[Phil Nelson]

Hey, tidy work as usual. By coincidence, I recently finished a GE 810 of my own.

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

according to Riders C3-2.

What Riders doc are you referencing? The Riders manual that I have seen uses page numbers like 2-20, 2-21, etc.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson

Hey, tidy work as usual. By coincidence, I recently finished a GE 810 of my own.

What Riders doc are you referencing? The Riders manual that I have seen uses page numbers like 2-20, 2-21, etc.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Phil,
C3-2 is the Change section of Riders Volume 3 page 2 of the change section.

[AlanInSitges]

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson

Hey, tidy work as usual. By coincidence, I recently finished a GE 810 of my own.

I can't seem to find the article on your site. C'mon man, your public is waiting!

[old_coot88]

Nor could I.

[Phil Nelson]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

C3-2 is the Change section of Riders Volume 3 page 2 of the change section.

Ah, now I see:

http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/changes_rider_3.pdf

Re my 810, the restoration is done, but the article is still a-brewin' . I should be able to finish it soon, though (I swear that is not a lie, totally not a lie . . . ).

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson

Ah, now I see:

http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/changes_rider_3.pdf

Re my 810, the restoration is done, but the article is still a-brewin' . I should be able to finish it soon, though (I swear that is not a lie, totally not a lie . . . ).

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Quality takes time ... And good things are worth the wait.

[Crist Rigott]

Well talk about bad luck! I was aligning the audio and had just finished up the last tweak when I lost the picture! After a few moments, the L2 filter choke started to sizzle and spit out wax. At the same time the 5U4G was pinballing! I quickly shut it down and the choke continued to sizzle for a few seconds.

I remembered reading when Phil restored his 810 he had an almost identical situation. His yoke windings has shorted together. So I checked mine. Same thing.

Looks like I'm in the market for a yoke. I have a junker 806 I'll see if the yoke is the same. EDIT: NOPE THE 806 IS NOT THE SAME.

Below is a link to Phil's experience.

https://antiqueradios.com/forums/vie...31967#p2931967

[Yamamaya42]

Sucks that it happened, esp after all you have done so far...

But I do have to ask...
Unfamiliar term...

"5U4G was pinballing!"

pinballing?
Not heard that used in relation to tubes before.