a real challange?

[Yamamaya42]

https://imgur.com/y84aCsd
OK..
I can't get a stable reading of any resistance between pin 1-2 , it's jumping all over the place, prob from going through all the coils, nor can i get a stable reading of resistance to the point "red wire" but there is 68v on both plates, ( sams says 50v)

between pins 5-6 was 438 ohms, ( additive of the 2 150 ohm resistors ), voltage at those pins changed dramatically with picture (contrast ) control.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

https://imgur.com/y84aCsd
OK..
I can't get a stable reading of any resistance between pin 1-2 , it's jumping all over the place, prob from going through all the coils, nor can i get a stable reading of resistance to the point "red wire" but there is 68v on both plates, ( sams says 50v)

between pins 5-6 was 438 ohms, ( additive of the 2 150 ohm resistors ), voltage at those pins changed dramatically with picture (contrast ) control.

From either pin 1 or 2 of the rf amp to the red B+wire you should read around 3,500 ohms if R1, 2, 4, 11 were close to as marked. R1, R2 are paralleled by the tuner switch and those are in series with R4, R11. It's possible your meter is charging some cap, but I'm not seeing it at first glance. Or maybe the meters voltage is setting up an oscillation, who knows. All those tuning coils should read relatively low DC resistance compared to the higher total resistance. Anyhow it appears you now have a decent B+ getting to those plates, so I'm getting a little lost with the ups and downs.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

From either pin 1 or 2 of the rf amp to the red B+wire you should read around 3,500 ohms if R1, 2, 4, 11 were close to as marked. R1, R2 are paralleled by the tuner switch and those are in series with R4, R11. It's possible your meter is charging some cap, but I'm not seeing it at first glance. Or maybe the meters voltage is setting up an oscillation, who knows. All those tuning coils should read relatively low DC resistance compared to the higher total resistance. Anyhow it appears you now have a decent B+ getting to those plates, so I'm getting a little lost with the ups and downs.

I'm not sure if its a tuner issue still or not, there is still snow in the pic, the 150 ohm resistors DO seem to be a bit off, but i don't know how much it is affecting anything in there.

I could try re-checking the plate resistance with a non digital meter, I think i have one, not sure.
the tubes in the tuner ARE new.

could this all be IF? or both, perhaps no way to tell really :/

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

From either pin 1 or 2 of the rf amp to the red B+wire you should read around 3,500 ohms if R1, 2, 4, 11 were close to as marked. R1, R2 are paralleled by the tuner switch and those are in series with R4, R11. It's possible your meter is charging some cap, but I'm not seeing it at first glance. Or maybe the meters voltage is setting up an oscillation, who knows. All those tuning coils should read relatively low DC resistance compared to the higher total resistance. Anyhow it appears you now have a decent B+ getting to those plates, so I'm getting a little lost with the ups and downs.

found 2 meters that worked well, my 16 year old fluke 77, says it's 4.39k so did the very old Micronta 22-220, but the no-name brands gave me crap, but the fluke did give the same reading as the crap ones did for the resistors on the grids. about 438 ohms.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Last I heard you said your tuner tube pin voltages were checking OK per Sams, so any drifted resistors really aren't too concerning to me. But I'm only one persons opinion. To me the bigger issue is you really don't have any good method to check signal strength or substitute a known good signal at various points in your set. Personally I like the convenience of a B&K 1077B Analyst. With one you can substitute a Video IF signal and compare that picture with with what you get connecting to the antenna. Basically you'll be able to substitute signals starting at the CRT and work your way all the way back to the antenna. The catch is these units may also need some repairs made to them. But they are relatively common place and also quite inexpensive if you can find one from some place local to you. Quite literally no one needs them today other that a handful of us hobbyists, so there's no good reason they should be anything but dirt cheap, or even free for shipping.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Last I heard you said your tuner tube pin voltages were checking OK per Sams, so any drifted resistors really aren't too concerning to me. But I'm only one persons opinion. To me the bigger issue is you really don't have any good method to check signal strength or substitute a known good signal at various points in your set. Personally I like the convenience of a B&K 1077B Analyst. With one you can substitute a Video IF signal and compare that picture with with what you get connecting to the antenna. Basically you'll be able to substitute signals starting at the CRT and work your way all the way back to the antenna. The catch is these units may also need some repairs made to them. But they are relatively common place and also quite inexpensive if you can find one from some place local to you. Quite literally no one needs them today other that a handful of us hobbyists, so there's no good reason they should be anything but dirt cheap, or even free for shipping.

looks up " B&K 1077B Analyst"
I remember that thing!
I used to work in a TV repair shop late 90s and the owner had one, it was not used much , but I DO remember the CRT inside in front of the weird pick up tube that you put cells in front of for display output.

and there are some on e-bay
perhaps when I get my tax refund


and true about the tuner, I'm pretty sure that trying to replace anything in it would do more harm than good.
There Used to be someone within 50-70 miles from here who fixed/ rebuilt them, but they have not been heard from in some time. "quality tuner service" out of Longview, TX.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Yeah ebay unfortunately is probably about the most inflated place you could get one. Should be $20 maybe 50 tops for a very nice looking one. You really should make sure you get at least the target slide with it. Otherwise the only cable you'll need is a BNC to clip leads. Shipping too is a deal killer now days on test gear. Ask around if there was anyone in your area that used to service TV's. Post a wanted add on FB marketplace if you have an account. Seems to be the latest and greatest place to sell old stuff.