1950 Admiral 16" Set; Recapped... No Picture!!

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Magnavox300

Thanks, yes I did see at least one “dog bone” resistor in there, didn’t know they were Japanese! Also funny to see all the parallel resistors in there...
Could I simply replace them with half the value? Or were they done that way for a reason?

Inu no hone ? :p

[kvflyer]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Some sets made around the Korean war had changes to the tube line up and other weirdness to account for shortages. Check the base wiring of that tube against the schematic...if it matches that of the tube of the schematic but not the one in the set then the schematic is right, but if it is significantly different from the schematic it may be a production change not documented on the schematic you have.

Other weird things they did included using odd looking German resistors and or American made factory rejects where the marked value was wrong but the measured value was right...

Originally Posted by Magnavox300

Thanks, yes I did see at least one “dog bone” resistor in there, didn’t know they were Japanese! Also funny to see all the parallel resistors in there...
Could I simply replace them with half the value? Or were they done that way for a reason?

I have an Admiral 26R12 that is identical to the one I had as a teenager. It has a rectangular all glass CRT. I restored it (even though it was working!) and during the restoration I found out from many of the members here and on the Antique Radio Forum that there was a component shortage possibly due to the Korean War Effort. I also found many paralleled resistors and thought that some idiot "Had been there".

So, what you are finding is OK; normal. I suspect that if the final value of the combination is correct, you can leave it. Heck, it is part of the set's history.

[Magnavox300]

Would anyone have a schematic for this Admiral 21D1 Chassis?
I found similar types, but not specifically the "21D1"...

[EdKozk2]

The Early Television Foundation has a PDF copy of Riders TV covering the 21D1 Admiral chassis. The 21D1 chassis is covered on the last two pages of a 26 page file.

https://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/..._rider_tv6.pdf

Ed

[bandersen]

You might also get something out of looking through my restoration of a similar Admiral set. http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=269953

It also have some odd parts including a 6H6 tube.

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by EdKozk2

The Early Television Foundation has a PDF copy of Riders TV covering the 21D1 Admiral chassis. The 21D1 chassis is covered on the last two pages of a 26 page file.

https://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/..._rider_tv6.pdf

Ed

Awesome! Thanks!!
I looked up the 2.7ohm and the 470K resistors that are under the 1B3 tube, and schematic is showing the 2.7 as a 1/2 watt and the 470K as a 1 watt;

Visually the 2.7ohm really looks like a 1 watt, but should I just replace it with a 1/2 watt like the schematic shows? That's all I have anyway, unless I order a 1 watt.

[old_coot88]

Half watt is fine in that application.

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

Half watt is fine in that application.

Perfect! Thanks for the help!!

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by bandersen

You might also get something out of looking through my restoration of a similar Admiral set. http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=269953

It also have some odd parts including a 6H6 tube.

Thanks, I actually did watch and enjoy a lot of your videos...and especially learned to be careful of the steel CRT when it's running and exposed! I would have never considered that a danger at all!

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Magnavox300

Awesome! Thanks!!
I looked up the 2.7ohm and the 470K resistors that are under the 1B3 tube, and schematic is showing the 2.7 as a 1/2 watt and the 470K as a 1 watt;

Visually the 2.7ohm really looks like a 1 watt, but should I just replace it with a 1/2 watt like the schematic shows? That's all I have anyway, unless I order a 1 watt.

I worked on a lot of these old sets. I've yet to see a bad resistor in the HV rectifier filament circuit or a bad doorknob capacitor. Not saying it can't happen. I haven't worked on one in 50 years.

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I worked on a lot of these old sets. I've yet to see a bad resistor in the HV rectifier filament circuit or a bad doorknob capacitor. Not saying it can't happen. I haven't worked on one in 50 years.

You may be right, I only tested the 2.7ohm resistor in the circuit, many times after I take out a resistor, it measures fine...

[Magnavox300]

Okay, replaced all resistors as needed, and now just waiting for the 6CD6 tube to get here...

Quick question: there is a .47 capacitor ( C211 ) off of the 6AV6 tube, which I replaced, but Sams and Rider schematics both show it to only be a .047...
Did they make a mistake at the factory?

[Electronic M]

In the audio stages capacitance value is non-critical....you could probably install whichever value sounds better and the set won't care which that is.

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

In the audio stages capacitance value is non-critical....you could probably install whichever value sounds better and the set won't care which that is.

Perfect... that’s good to know, thanks!

[Magnavox300]

Okay, now that I replaced about 7 resistors, I get nothing on the screen again!
I looked over the values and locations many times...
I did remove some strange looking resistors, at least according to the schematic they're supposed to be resistors...
Maybe these are just those unusual types found in these sets because of the war?
Just want to be sure I didn't remove something I shouldn't have!