Unsure if this is a capacitor

[Unimatic1140]

Hey guys, years ago I recapped and restored a 1948 bakelite floor model Admiral 10" set with chassis 20X1. Recently it developed a symptom of the picture height was shortened and it appears that the moving image had multiple images of the same image on the screen.

In taking voltage checks it seems when I measured around this part that looks like a resistor but appears to actually be a capacitor the screen fixed itself and was suddenly fine again. The schematic say 180mmf and I'm wondering if this actually is a .0018mf capacitor? I'd like to try replacing it but want to be sure I know what this part is before I do that. Please see image.

I have a few .0015mf/1600 volt caps, could this be a suitable replacement or should I try and find a .0018? Also why is this capacitor so large, would it be higher voltage cap? For some reason the Sams Photofact doesn't mention the voltage of this cap in the listing like it does with most of the other capacitors listed.

Thanks everyone!

[Electronic M]

That's a ceramic capacitor. It is 180pF = 0.00018uF not 0.0018 .

[Unimatic1140]

Perfect thank you Tom! 180pf it is, my other confusion about this cap is what voltage should I be looking for in a replacement? It looks at lot larger and thicker than those round disk ceramic caps.

[Tom9589]

According to the Sam's parts list, the Centralab part number is D6-181 which is a 180pF, 600 volt ceramic capacitor. In an old Allied catalog, the part looks just like the one in your photo. Don't know the date of this Allied catalog, but the cost of this capacitor was only $0.15 each.

[bandersen]

This type of tubular ceramic cap is very stable and reliable. If you do replace it, use a C0G or NP0 type dielectric.

[Unimatic1140]

Thanks guys I appreciate the advice. Since you say they are very stable and reliable before I replace it I'll try to remove it and clean the terminals and re-solder it back in. It's been over 20 years since I restored the set and maybe the connections have gone slightly bad over time.

[old_tv_nut]

The soldering of the yellow wire on the middle terminal doesn't look so great either.

[dtvmcdonald]

You don't need to remove it. Just resolder it and the other terminals on that strip as
well as the pins on the tube socket. It does have some signs that the wires on the terminal
that cap is soldered to might have flux impeding a good connection. Scrape that off before resoldering.

Also ... since touching something had an effect, unplug the tube, check to see that all the
tube pins look well soldered, clean them, and apply a tiny bit of deOxit before
plugging back in.