bought possibly the only tube color Capeheart in private hands

[Electronic M]

So I have went over every capacitor and resistor in the horizontal and haven't found anything wrong. Last night it randomly started producing 18-20KV with the HV reg biased hard into cutoff and the CRT dark. When the HV reg is set up to conduct per manual and or the screen is bright HV slumps down to somewhere in the 10-16KV range and varies with picture content.

What's weird is I have full deflection, good drive, 135mA cathode current (supposedly the tube is rated for 170mA normal max opperation, but Sam's doesn't give any value for it), the flyback doesn't run hot, the HV winding resistance is reasonable, focus is measuring reasonable, but HV can't source current without slumping.

The only thing out of the ordinary I can find is R140 the 4.7k 1W that feeds the horizontal yoke center tap drifted up to 6.8K with discoloration and the new 2W 4.7K I replaced it with gets hot enough to sizzle water. I borrowed the yoke from my CTC-4 and cobbled an adapter for it and the HV was worse with the CTC-4 yoke but opening the center tap wire made it work about the same as the Capeheart yoke.
Not sure what to do next to try to fix this. Part of me wonders if moving the H OUT plate and focus rect plate to tap T on the flyback would help, I'm also thinking about trying it with the Capeheart yoke with the R140 lead unplugged.

I have a solid state 3A3 in it that doesn't change the HV level compared to the tube. Part of me wonders if there could be an HV filament winding current leak that I can't hear that somehow draws just enough to load the fly down to 16KV...I've been thinking about taking an HV socket cup from a junk set and a spare 30KV Doorknob cap and seeing how much HV makes without the stock HV rect filament wiring in place.


I was able to get the tuner to tune RF channels (it needs a cleaning bad though), and it is demodulation color though the chroma osc seems to not sync.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I started messing with the chassis last night. Got full vertical by resoldering a cracked joint on a 500uF 10V vertical lytic that some tech had snipped a lead then badly tacked it back together.

I couldn't get it to pass VHF 13 from my agile modulator, but did get audio either from it or FM. I was able to get it to pass IF from my B&K analyst and discover monochrome video passes, I have sync on both axes, and color demodulation seems like it's atleast somewhat working.

The high B+ rails are only 30V low one of the lower ones is a bit worse though.

The 16KV HV (focus is about half what it should be too) is a bit confusing. H Out screen was about 10V low and control grid was at -28V instead of the Sam's -50. There's a terminal that a note on the chassis says to ground if the H drive is insufficient doing that got me -44V at the grid and the screen 10-20V higher than Sam's. This didn't change HV. Unplugging the CRT and HV reg aren't increasing the HV and neither is disconnecting the ground of the HV doorknob. Strangely the boost is only 30V low.
I need to go through the recap the previous owner did with a fine tooth comb now though. There's mistakes. Sam's shows 2 different .22uF 1KV caps connecting flyback lugs to centering pot terminals...one was replaced with a pair of parallel .1 400V caps (that they aren't shorted is a miracle) and the other one looks like a .1 at 1.5KV out of a late 60s Philco.
I'm hoping the HV issue is just some wiring or part error but if it isn't finding it is going to be fun.

That poor solder joint makes me cringe, also the lack of tubing on the long leads. :O

[Josef]

I guess you have already seen the open joint on the left connection of the .47uF orange drop

Congratulations to this find. It's not only rare but a very nice set too