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#31
09-09-2021, 06:38 PM
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No, the resistor looks fine and it is a metal oxide resistor that I put in. It is probably a 2 watt, IIRC.
Now, would you please tell me where I put the spare chassis that I already canibalized parts from? If I can't find it I can pull it off the one I found but I would rather leave that intact. Then I have to go and disconnect the restored chassis, undo all 28 or whatever wires plus the grounds on both PCB's, pull the parts on both, replace it on the restored chassis, then reconnect all 28 wires. No problem! Why do people say these sets are a pain in the arse? 
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#32
09-09-2021, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
I try to warn them when I can.
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#33
09-09-2021, 08:30 PM
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Mad: to avoid all that riggamaroll, is there any chance you could cut the bad coil off just above the lugs (Dremel cutting wheel maybe), leaving the lugs undisturbed, and then piggyback the replacement onto the lugs? just a thought.
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#34
09-09-2021, 09:01 PM
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I believe the oscillator will run if you short out the coil. That's part of the setup instructions to set the horizonal frequency control. Might not have a stable sync, but at least it should restore the HV.
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#35
09-09-2021, 09:52 PM
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@banderson Just went and shorted out the coil. We have HV again!
 Oddly enough the the signal was pretty stable. But there is light on the screen! @old_coot88 Maybe I could just piggy back. I will look and see if there is enough room. I found my other parts chassis and L22 is open on it. So it seems that this part likes to fail, 2 out of 3 that I have are dead. So I will see if I might be able to repair one of the dead ones first, maybe it is at the end of the coil or only a few turns down. If not I think I will start looking for another as I hate to have no spare for a part that obviously likes to fail. I would assume that there is no realistic way to make or use a modern part there? Thanks very much for the help!
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#36
09-09-2021, 10:41 PM
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Sams doesn't give the inductance value, but chances are any two-lug, slug tuned H osc.coil would work if you have a stray one floating around. Just jump it in with a pair of clip leads for trial.
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#37
09-10-2021, 12:16 AM
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Some sets you can get around removing the board and unwiring it. On the 17" sets and the 21" console with the power transformer you can unscrew the vertical transformer and board grounds, lift the board 0.5-1" and snake an iron underneath (IIRC there are small holes under the board that facilitate access.
The tandems can also be opened like that.I just recapped 2 tandem main boards like that... I've never built a ship in a bottle but I'd imagine it is probably a similar experience.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
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#38
09-10-2021, 08:31 AM
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Like O,C-88 said, “chances are any two-lug, slug tuned H osc.coil would work”.
https://talonelectronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=9543 this is a NOS replacement for my big mama Magnavox, who knows, it may work, if it does not, you are not losing much for that price!
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために
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#39
09-10-2021, 10:25 AM
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Great news
 The coil isn't a crucial part of the multivibrator oscillator. I believe the RC combo of C43 (the 390pF mica cap) and the horizontal rang/hold controls set the free running frequency.The parallel combo of that coil and 3900 pF cap are set to resonate at 15,750 HZ and help to keep the oscillator from drifting. Quote:
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#40
09-10-2021, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Last edited by old_coot88; 09-10-2021 at 11:18 AM.
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#41
09-10-2021, 12:36 PM
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For what it's worth your L22(Philco 32-4754-3) crosses to Thordarson HS-16.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23403929297...IAAOSwy9pguZCy
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#42
09-10-2021, 03:24 PM
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Wow. You guys are awesome. I am going to try running the set with the coil shorted out. Last night the contrast and everything was out of whack from pulling the knobs off and pulling the chassis out. So I will see how well it runs as is. I did pull one of the dead coils from my parts board and it appears the open is inside. I may try peeling some wire off to see if I can find it. But if it runs ok as is I will go with "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Because every time you perform surgery there is a chance of screwing something else up.
Quote:
Now, back to some tile work. Flipping real life is such a pain. But I will fool with the set again later. Thanks! I really, truly mean that.
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#43
09-10-2021, 04:12 PM
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If you can find the break in that coil, there's a neat method of stripping hair-fine wire without mechanically abrading it, called the 'aspirin trick'.
 No lie, it really works. Put an aspirin tablet on something like a jar lid. Use a soldering iron (or gun) to heat the aspirin so it forms a puddle. Dip the end of the wire in it, and the hot acetacylic acid strips it clean. The fumes are gawdawful, so use plenty of ventilation. 
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#44
09-10-2021, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
that is exactly the same part that they are selling in the link I posted above from Talon! Item # COIL152 Other Part Numbers GE WT36X402 RCA 111380 and they have 3! not so hard to find after all!
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために
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#45
09-10-2021, 06:07 PM
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Took a break from tile and fired up the set. It looks really good. So I am of a mind to leave it alone. And I have the sub part coming so if it becomes a problem I am ready.
One question I have, is if I am going to run it shorted would it be better to tack a resistor instead of a wire to short out the coil? I just want to make sure that too much current isn't flowing. Again, thanks. I'm gonna have a beer and watch Honey West later.
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