1950s or '60s vintage Zenith TVs, Need some info

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

You probably ruined it when you salvaged it...the plastic sides and dielectric/foil roll melt easily. If you accidentally touched your iron to the side of the cap and melted it a bit you could have shorted together the 2 capacitor metalized plastic plates, or damaged the dielectric enough to make failure easier.

I've ruined a few yellow caps with my iron myself....I don't like that they can melt easily so I only use them if I'm restuff paper caps or dealing with a situation where I need extra long leads and I don't want to Western Union splice longer leads on.

Well I had replaced the burned up one with another one and for some reason the picture tube is glowing a purplish color inside the neck near the socket, and I'm not getting any picture on the screen.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Well I had replaced the burned up one with another one and for some reason the picture tube is glowing a purplish color inside the neck near the socket, and I'm not getting any picture on the screen.

NOT GOOD

that means the CRT is gassy. like seen here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/5379156237/

Running it with a bad tube like that can cause all sorts of nasty feedback problems.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

NOT GOOD

that means the CRT is gassy. like seen here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/5379156237/

Running it with a bad tube like that can cause all sorts of nasty feedback problems.

What would of caused it to do that? Because it wasn't doing that before, the picture tube was running normally (no purplish glow) up until that capacitor failed.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

What would of caused it to do that? Because it wasn't doing that before, the picture tube was running normally (no purplish glow) up until that capacitor failed.

you need re-check all voltages on the CRT, who knows what that did when the cap let go.

stick it on a CRT tester and see if it still has emissions.

is the HV still good, and not AC somehow.

for you to be seeing purple in the CRT elements, something is VERY wrong, and usually that is a tip off of air have gotten in there somehow.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

you need re-check all voltages on the CRT, who knows what that did when the cap let go.

stick it on a CRT tester and see if it still has emissions.

is the HV still good, and not AC somehow.

for you to be seeing purple in the CRT elements, something is VERY wrong, and usually that is a tip off of air have gotten in there somehow.

I don't have a CRT tester, I do have a Knight tube tester that can be used to test CRTs but I don't have the special adaptors to convert the Knight tube tester into a CRT checker.

[Electronic M]

Sometimes the glass spontaneously cracks from manufacturing defects or improper care/handling.

Case in point back in October I found a CTC16 with a ruined flyback, and an OK 21FBP22. I installed that 21FBP22 in my Zenith Franken Chancellor and it worked fine for an hour (2 half hour runs) then the glass spontaneously cracked at one of the base leads and it took in air and failed gassy.
Once a CRT gets gassy enough that it stops displaying an image, lugs down the HV, and starts glowing purple in the neck that tube is usually FUBAR.
I had to source another tube after mine cracked.

I just thank my lucky stars I'm not miniman82....He had a basically priceless metal cone prototype of the 15GP22 spontaneously crack and fail on him... Loosing a tube that irreplaceable has to royally suck!

[Yamamaya42]

and having a gassy CRT can cause all sorts of weird feedback issues, that COULD be what toasted the cap.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Sometimes the glass spontaneously cracks from manufacturing defects or improper care/handling.

Case in point back in October I found a CTC16 with a ruined flyback, and an OK 21FBP22. I installed that 21FBP22 in my Zenith Franken Chancellor and it worked fine for an hour (2 half hour runs) then the glass spontaneously cracked at one of the base leads and it took in air and failed gassy.
Once a CRT gets gassy enough that it stops displaying an image, lugs down the HV, and starts glowing purple in the neck that tube is usually FUBAR.
I had to source another tube after mine cracked.

I just thank my lucky stars I'm not miniman82....He had a basically priceless metal cone prototype of the 15GP22 spontaneously crack and fail on him... Loosing a tube that irreplaceable has to royally suck!

Well how hard would a 23EDP4 picture tube be to locate?

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

and having a gassy CRT can cause all sorts of weird feedback issues, that COULD be what toasted the cap.

Including maybe linearity issues? I'm asking because this TV had some weird linearity issues on the top of the screen when I got it going. See my picture several posts back to see a picture of the linearity issues I was talking about.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Well how hard would a 23EDP4 picture tube be to locate?

ETF has 2

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...18&single=true

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

ETF has 2

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...18&single=true

Ok, how do I get one from them?

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Ok, how do I get one from them?

their email is [email protected]

you can contact them with your request , that is the best way,

Steve McVoy should get back to you sooner or later!

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

their email is [email protected]

you can contact them with your request , that is the best way,

Steve McVoy should get back to you sooner or later!

Ok, thanks! :^) Sorry for all the questions, I've never gotten a picture tube before from them, which is why I asked.

[Yamamaya42]

How it normally works is, Steve will give a ballpark cost for the tube ( item + shipping & packing ), while the check inventory, this can sometimes take a while as they are only at the location on the weekend.

In the meantime, you can use this time to go over your set with a fine tooth comb, looking for any damage, be it a direct cause of, or a secondary symptom of this CRT failure.

This can include CRT socket & wiring and related circuits.
Flyback transformer & HV elated circuits including boost and focus.
Deflection yoke and related circuits, while paying close attention to the horizontal windings, there is a great deal of voltage potential on these windings, and if anything went wrong here, ( shorted turn, or short to dag etc ) , it has a chance of creating a hotspot, and could crack the neck.

Not saying that this is what happened to you but, you wanna be SURE that it did not!

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

How it normally works is, Steve will give a ballpark cost for the tube ( item + shipping & packing ), while the check inventory, this can sometimes take a while as they are only at the location on the weekend.

In the meantime, you can use this time to go over your set with a fine tooth comb, looking for any damage, be it a direct cause of, or a secondary symptom of this CRT failure.

This can include CRT socket & wiring and related circuits.
Flyback transformer & HV elated circuits including boost and focus.
Deflection yoke and related circuits, while paying close attention to the horizontal windings, there is a great deal of voltage potential on these windings, and if anything went wrong here, ( shorted turn, or short to dag etc ) , it has a chance of creating a hotspot, and could crack the neck.

Not saying that this is what happened to you but, you wanna be SURE that it did not!

I think that's what I'm going to do, and also finish the final touches on the Bugeye TV.

Thanks for the heads up, as like I said this is the first time I've ever gotten this heavily involved in repairing TVs, in the past I've only ever done minor repairs like vertical and horizontal hold adjustments on 1980s TVs and or replacing blown fuses in TVs that were inadvertently shorted by the power cord being partially unplugged from the wall and a metal legged chair shorting up against the plug, or adjusting picture and color adjustments on TVs.

Besides my Meck and my RCA and now these Zeniths I'm relatively new to repairing tube powered TVs (I've only ever repaired Solid State TVs up to that point.)