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#1
03-10-2024, 07:11 AM
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Hi to all,
Hi Dinorhino, Congrats! on getting the display unit to show a raster. How many electrolytics needed changing? All "normal" Caps (with leads) or some Surface Mounted Devices? Do you know where to inject Video & which format? (Composite, RGB, VGA...) I really wish HelloVoltage would help with more tech data, schematics, personal experience, etc. Best Regards jhalphen Paris/France 
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#2
03-13-2024, 05:19 PM
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Hi there, I replaced about 60 Capacitors in the tv unit, and around 30 in the diversity unit. All through hole caps.
Today I hooked up my diversity unit to the tv for the first time, I had to figure out the connections for power. There's 2 ground pins, BATTERY, ACC, and REMOTE, all 3 need to receive 12 volts for the unit to power on. Thankfully the custom cable I made using a old floppy drive ribbon and 26 pin female Centronics connectors was able to handle the current and didn't burn up lol. If you need a cable this is definitely the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Everything powered up fine, but the screen still shows the same white raster, no menu or anything. When I press the buttons it beeps now so that's a good sign the two units are communicating. Maybe its not displaying because I haven't hooked up the pins for the "safety harness" that disables the video display when the car is in drive. But I would assume it should still display the menu so you can tune the radio while driving. Ill try that next but I don't know what kind of signal they are expecting. I would also really appreciate HelloVoltage's input, tell us everything you know please! If HelloVoltage hasn't already, I intend to reverse engineer the connection between the diversity unit and the tv to see what video signals are being passed. But I need a fully functional unit first. Update: Something I forgot to mention is that after the white raster gets "squished" half of it turns grey. I discovered that by adjusting the blanking pot on board B the grey part gets brighter or darker. Board B appears to handle the beam indexing and feeds the amplified video to the neck-board and then the cathode on the CRT. Nothing happened when I tried feeding the B board a video signal into one of its RGB pins either. I also discovered that by disconnecting the photo sensor board from board B, the pin cushion distortion doesn't happen and the white raster fills the whole screen without changing. I suspected maybe the diversity unit was not sending video so I tested the connector with my oscilloscope to find what looked like a video signal and I came across one that sort of looked like a video signal and it changed slightly when changing from TV to VIDEO/WM. Unfortunately while testing I had the tv running for longer than any time before and I heard a small pop and smelled something I can only describe as "too hot electronics" and capacitor juice. So I shut it off and that's as far as I've gotten. I inspected a little and haven't found anything obviously burnt or damaged yet. Checking with a infrared thermometer nothing I can see seems to be getting unreasonably hot, even the vertical output transistor only gets to around 130F If only there was a service manual available. Last edited by dinorhino; 03-21-2024 at 01:10 AM.
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#3
05-28-2024, 07:16 AM
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VideoKarma Member
Join Date: Dec 2023 Posts: 5 Hi there, I replaced about 60 Capacitors in the tv unit, and around 30 in the diversity unit. All through hole caps. Today I hooked up my diversity unit to the tv for the first time, I had to figure out the connections for power. There's 2 ground pins, BATTERY, ACC, and REMOTE, all 3 need to receive 12 volts for the unit to power on. Thankfully the custom cable I made using a old floppy drive ribbon and 26 pin female Centronics connectors was able to handle the current and didn't burn up lol. If you need a cable this is definitely the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Everything powered up fine, but the screen still shows the same white raster, no menu or anything. When I press the buttons it beeps now so that's a good sign the two units are communicating. I have 8 of the displays working. Only using 1 of the diversity units for all though. I have 7 displays consistently working. Only been testing with 1 of my diversity units though. >>>>this suggests your divirsity unit is not fully repaired. Do you see/hear the relay actuate? Maybe its not displaying because I haven't hooked up the pins for the "safety harness" that disables the video display when the car is in drive. But I would assume it should still display the menu so you can tune the radio while driving. Ill try that next but I don't know what kind of signal they are expecting. >>>>>safety harness/connector_jumps is/are not necessary. I would also really appreciate HelloVoltage's input, tell us everything you know please! If HelloVoltage hasn't already, I intend to reverse engineer the connection between the diversity unit and the tv to see what video signals are being passed. But I need a fully functional unit first. >>>>video is ntsc. Not sure if it's the 7(6?) line down version from japan. It's ntsc either way for testing. Update: Something I forgot to mention is that after the white raster gets "squished" half of it turns grey. I discovered that by adjusting the blanking pot on board B the grey part gets brighter or darker. Board B appears to handle the beam indexing and feeds the amplified video to the neck-board and then the cathode on the CRT. >>>>> avoid messing with pots. Nothing happened when I tried feeding the B board a video signal into one of its RGB pins either. >>>>>Please point out what you thought you were doing on the "b" board. I have so far only been able to partially batch in a composite signal without the divirsity unit. see : (http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...&postcount=178) image 6. Injecting rgb looks to be possible, but not yet successful. Not much attempt though I also discovered that by disconnecting the photo sensor board from board B, the pin cushion distortion doesn't happen and the white raster fills the whole screen without changing. >>>>never tried that I suspected maybe the diversity unit was not sending video so I tested the connector with my oscilloscope to find what looked like a video signal and I came across one that sort of looked like a video signal and it changed slightly when changing from TV to VIDEO/WM. >>>>do you have photo of your divirsity unit? Unfortunately while testing I had the tv running for longer than any time before and I heard a small pop| >>>>ouch and smelled something I can only describe as "too hot electronics" and capacitor juice. So I shut it off and that's as far as I've gotten. I inspected a little and haven't found anything obviously burnt or damaged yet. Checking with a infrared thermometer nothing I can see seems to be getting unreasonably hot, even the vertical output transistor only gets to around 130F If only there was a service manual available. Last edited by dinorhino; 03-20-2024 at 11:10 PM. Reply With Quote I have no service manual. Just went through slowly cleaning vias, replacing caps, controlling power. Only mistake so far was the assumption about the proprietary composite jack which is also 3.5mm. Last edited by HelloVoltage; 05-28-2024 at 07:21 AM. Reason: more info
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#4
05-28-2024, 07:49 AM
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@dinorhino
I just looked at your photo hosted on google. Your board B and board A for xav-u50 are looking significantly different from the a&b boards on my xav-u50's More photos please. More photos please all.  one of my xav-u50 Last edited by HelloVoltage; 05-28-2024 at 08:09 AM.
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#5
01-22-2025, 12:58 AM
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Hi there, it's been a while since I've checked in on this thread. The indextron is still disassembled on my bench so I took some pics for you. I haven't attempted to power it on since last time.
I didn't replace every capacitor on either the diversity unit or the tv unit, I left the really tiny non polar caps and really large high voltage caps, maybe this was a mistake. I did test every original cap with a ESR meter and they all tested well within spec. The diversity unit does operate the relay when powered on. I'm using a 16V 4.5A laptop charger to power both the diversity unit and tv. The voltage drops to ~14v under load IIRC. I had wondered if this was enough to power it, I don't have a good way of measuring the current draw but the charger brick stays relatively cool. I haven't actually tested the audio outputs yet to see if the tuner is functioning... I want to finish this project to make room on my bench, I know if I put it back together now I'll probably never come back and finish it LOL HelloVoltage, any information you can give me on what you had to repair and replace on either unit, please share! I'm a novice when it comes to CRT's and electronics repair in this context so what you might think is not worth mentioning might be very valuable to me! Thanks for the help so far. Here's some pics https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uMp...ew?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/158Y...ew?usp=sharing
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#6
02-04-2025, 01:58 PM
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Hi to all,
Hope i'm not "broadcasting old news" but found this Sony KVX-370 Indextron demo on YouTube (7min 13") from 4 years ago. Guy purchased a NIB unit & recapped it before any tryout and it works. Good views of the internal construction & circuit boards. Still photos would help documenting future repairs. https://youtu.be/9mGqyCtXyhA?si=lN7bm4yUzoPKERts Best Regards jhalphen Paris/France
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#7
02-04-2025, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
I thought it been well covered by now.
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#8
02-04-2025, 05:22 PM
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Hi to All,
Hi HelloVoltage, I'm the person who gave everybody the KVX-370 service manual about 20 years ago. The B&W Scans (other than schematics) are of very poor quality with no grey scale. I was just suggesting that color snapshots of the hi-def YouTube video would be a good adjunct to the service manual. Best Regards jhalphen Paris/France
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#9
02-04-2025, 03:50 PM
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[QUOTE=dinorhino;3261915
I left the really tiny non polar caps and really large high voltage caps, maybe this was a mistake. I did test every original cap with a ESR meter and they all tested well within spec. [/QUOTE] My large caps leaked out fierce on the first diversity unit I opened up, most trace repair was in that relay area. [QUOTE=dinorhino;3261915 I'm using a 16V 4.5A laptop charger to power both the diversity unit and tv. [/QUOTE] I use just the 12v rail of an atx power supply. (amperage permitting)That should be enough as these are automotive electronics. Quote:
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