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#301
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Yep, you have it. Just be careful not to touch the case of the VTVM when touching the chassis.
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#302
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Quote:
Where do I set the brightness and contrast controls? As I was starting with the potentiometer adjustment, I had a bright horizontal line which I suspected so I turned the brightness down. As I got further along, the line returned even with minimal brightness. I don't want to burn the tube so I adjusted the contrast to get rid of the line. All of this changed the -4.5V setting so I tweaked that a bit but now that I'm thinking about it, the appearance and disappearance of the line is due to the frequency changes I was feeding in? I don't know. I guess what I need to know is where to set the brightness and contrast from the beginning and what to do if I see voltage on the pot controlled monitoring spot varying from -4.5V? |
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#303
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Just set the brightness and contrast to minimum. Ensure there is no CRT beam current. That is all.
The -4.5v is only an approximate. The important thing will be you seeing the dip on the meter as you adjust the traps for minimum. |
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#304
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OK thank you so much! This is actually fun tonight and not the agonies of some other hurdles with this thing. I think I'll go back to the start and just double check up through step 15. Then I'll move on. Could have not have gotten here without everyone's help and especially your guidance and generosity with your time. I've learned a lot through this process so far. Got a way to go with this TV and adjustments so don't go anywhere yet!!!!!!
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#305
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No problem. There are still some challenges but you are making good progress.
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| Audiokarma |
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#306
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I went back to the very beginning to work my way through and I ran into an issue with one of the trap adjustments. For all of the traps, I could stay on either the 1.5 or 5 volt setting on the VTVM and tune the slug for minimum voltage. I’m not with the TV right now so I can’t relay specifics but after cruising through 3-4 slugs, I ran into one where I had to up the VTVM scale to 50V DC to find a range where I could adjust for a minimum. That’s probably indicative of an issue wouldn’t you say?
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#307
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Quote:
I will wait for more details so I can be sure what is going on. |
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#308
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Weekend got busy. Be back on it Monday and Tuesday during the day. Thanks so much!
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#309
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I went through all of the steps through the video IF and trap adjustments that are done from the top of the chassis (step 11 on the alignment table). I was able to do all of the minimum voltage adjustments with the VTVM on the 1.5V scale. The signal is being fed into V102 pin 1 at 300mv through a 1500pF ceramic capacitor.
The max/min swings on the VTVM while adjusting the slugs were pretty minimal. That didn't exactly fill me with confidence! Could my input signal strength be too low at 300mV? I have not encountered the problem described earlier where I had to increase the VTVM DC range to 50V. I must have seen that while going through the adjustments on the bottom of the chassis for maximum deflection on the meter. |
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#310
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Well...in typical me fashion, I didn't encounter the need for the voltage range adjustment on the VTVM all the way through step 15 on the alignment table this time through. I was able to do all of them on the 1.5V scale. I had a difficult time turning the bottom adjustment for step 15, the bottom of T102. I didn't want to push it and break the coil/slug. I'm wondering if I should check the video and sound quality and if the sound and picture are in sync when a signal is sent in from my VA62 and I tune in the set channel for the RF input? I'm going to need help with steps 16 and 17 anyway. Pretty complicated for this numbskull.
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| Audiokarma |
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#311
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Checked the picture quality with the signal generator multiburst signal. I really don't know that much about this pattern except to read the vertical bars for resolution. From the right side, there's actually some vertical lines I can distinguish in the last 2 bars but I don't know if that's actual video. The third bar from the right has no resolved lines but from there all the way to the last bar on the left, there's good clean resolution. Sound and video still not aligning no matter how much the fine tuning is adjusted.
Note: Not signal generator...I meant video generator Sencore VA 62 Last edited by Chris K; 09-17-2024 at 12:13 PM. |
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#312
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Alignment Table Step 16...Woof
OK...not in any particular order...
1. How am I supposed to sweep the signal? The 2 frequencies, 22.05 and 24.75 are the peaks of the sweep in Figure 15 (and Fig 28 photo) and should be set in the marker generator correct? 2. Am I sweeping with a central frequency of 25mc a symmetrical sweep of 10mc? Is that what's required by the instructions "Sweeping 20-30mc" under the Sweep Gen Freq Mc column in the alignment table or am I reading that completely wrong? 3. Set bias -2V. Does that mean adjust the 250k pot for a reading of -2V at the R135-R136 test point as before? 4. Now for the biggie...shunt a 330 ohm resistor across the primaries of T-102, 103, 104 and 106. Does that mean connect 330 ohm resistors between the transformer tabs of the primary coils of all 4 of the transformers? How, solder them in? Please say no! ![]() ![]()
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#313
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Whoa! You are jumping too fast here and making wrong assumptions.
The trap nulls are pretty obvious and should be more dramatic. You should aim to getting about two to four volts across the detector load on the VTVM. The trap is nulling out. If so you increase the signal level until you see a good null. Did you do all the traps properly? It is very important before you move on. |
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#314
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No I didn't think so. I was injecting the frequencies at around 200mV into V2 Pin1 through the 1500pF cap. I was not getting swings anything like 1.0-2.0 volts DC. Is 200mV not strong enough???
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#315
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Moving old ferrite slugs is fought with danger. The Canadian built RCA is is better than the US version as far as the transformer construction is concerned because in Canada they used brass threaded extensions to the ferrite cores. The US sets used slots in the cores themselves.
The adjustments should not need to be much the the stagger tuned cores (bottom ones) unless in the last 75 years someone has been there before. For reluctant ones, I like to direct a heat gun with an aiming nozzle at the hole to warm it a bit. NEVER FORCE A RELUCTANT CORE. They are very brittle and easily snapped and are a devil to remove and replace! |
| Audiokarma |
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