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Old 04-24-2026, 09:33 AM
TinCanAlley's Avatar
TinCanAlley TinCanAlley is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: So Cal, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeamT View Post
Hopping over the adjacent trace would be acceptable in this application. I would suggest using a short piece of spaghetti tubing to insulate the lead over the hop. You might also consider potting the electrolytic in a very small amount of adhesive to give it some mechanical stability. You could also gently scrape off the enamel on a small area at the end of the remaining trace to create a new pad. Form the lead to recreate the path of the missing trace, and solder to the pad you created. Consider potting the lead in a very small amount of adhesive for stability. This capacitor is in a sheltered area, so not as likely to be disturbed.

Out of curiousity, were the old caps bad?

You could also post a WTB for the entire board and/or workable 25EC58 chassis.

The 25EC58 was not rare. I am seeing 2 on FB MP in the midwest, both working, one is a non-remote Avanti. You are very dedicated to this TV, having a good working baseline chassis could be a great advantage....

I would consider the flyback a last last resort on the jail bars.

Do you have a spare HV tripler?

I'm not familiar with the BK 470, someone who is will have to comment on your CRT test. From the pictures you have posted it appears you have the brightness on the low side, in a darkened room, good focus and gray scale. It would be interesting to see how it looks with the brightness up a little bit.
The traces on this board are very fragile it seems, so I would be hesitant in scraping off anything to expose more. I will go the route of attaching to the other lead and using some of the tubing I have to cover the exposed lead. I have a glue gun, but am not sure if hot glue is acidic in the long term.

From that board, there is a 1uf that is 123% out of spec. It is showing as 2.23uf. There is a 50uf that is connected to the AFC to ground that is 26% out. It shows as 63uf. The rest are just under 20%. As for a replacement board, I found an NOS, but will get that as a last resort.

I'd like to keep the set as original as possible, so don't really want to swap in another chassis. If all my work doesn't rid me of the jailbars, I will live with it and possibly tackle it again in the future when I have more knowledge.

I don't have a spare OEM tripler, but I do have the NTE replacement that I got for possible future need. The set has the original tripler and the only thing I needed to change with the focus divider.

It's going to be interesting getting the assembly back together. I need to line up two gears so their wipers touch the proper pads on the boards. If they get out of alignment, the wrong light will illuminate with the wrong channel. Either from the factory or afterwards, there is a red mark on one gear and a black on the other. If you line them up, they are properly aligned. However, you now need to place the board on top of them without disturbing that alignment. What makes it difficult is the wipers are such that they act as springs, so the gears aren't sitting flush until the board is placed on top of them to seat them. See attached.

While frustrating at times, I am enjoying the challenge and gathering knowledge along the way. I am quite attached to this set as I've always wanted one since the first time I saw one. I have one now and I'm dedicated in restoring and preserving it for the future.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Tunner Gear Alignment.jpg (127.3 KB, 4 views)
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Last edited by TinCanAlley; 04-24-2026 at 09:56 AM.
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