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#16
07-23-2005, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Wish I had taken a pic of mine when it was apart, I believe it was a carbon comp. Last edited by Eric H; 07-23-2005 at 02:53 PM. 
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#17
07-23-2005, 03:48 PM
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Somebody rigged this fuse. I would suppose they did not have a 250V 3/4 amp pigtail replacement. The glass on the old fuse was broken. I will fix it the right way before powering up the set.
I went to Rat Shak and got a fuse holder and some 1 amp 250V fuses. Figured that the fuse holder will make future fuse replacements easier. Should the additional 1/4 AMP make a difference? More later I am going to the the car races! polaraman Last edited by polaraman; 07-23-2005 at 04:44 PM.
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#19
07-24-2005, 12:36 AM
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This is SAMS 459-1 if anybody wants to follow along. I may also need some help along the way.
Only 2 black beauty caps were left in the set. C54 was on the Video IF printed board. The other was C138 and it is on the 120v AC line coming into the set. I found some burned wires coming off the green control on the back of the chassis. The wires connect to the control, R175 and a terminal strip. I will have to trim the wires to get back to some good copper. The resistor tested good. I just hope the control is good. The wire was actually cracked right at the spot R175 was laying on it. I am glad I found it. It could have drove me nuts later. I posted a pic of the situation. polaraman Last edited by polaraman; 07-24-2005 at 11:27 PM.
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#20
07-24-2005, 12:57 AM
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Get rid of any old caps on the ac line terminals, the cap is usually on the cheater cord terminals before the fuse and if the cap shorts you will not have the set's fuse to limit the current. also if the cap goes to the chassis and it shorts you will have a hot chassis and not know it.
I have seen these burned wires too in ctc-16's...one thing to do may be to replace the wire, dress the lead away from the heat producing resistor lead and also put some heat shrink tubing over the wire, this will act as higher temperature insulation and help protect the wire from heat being generated in the region. I was able to find 3/4 amp fuses at rat shack at one time...however they may not have them anymore. WHat circuit is that in...you may only have 300 ma of normal current and a 1/2 amp fuse may afford quicker protection and still withstand the normal current in circuit. Last edited by Chad Hauris; 07-24-2005 at 01:04 AM.
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#21
07-24-2005, 01:28 AM
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The fuse in question is M6. It is connected to pin 1 6CG7(V11) Horizontal AFC, Horizontal Wave Form(L35), and vertical centering. I know rat Shack had 1/2 AMP fuses. I may get some tomorrow. I will call the electronics store to see if they have any 3/4 amp on Monday.
Thanks for the input on the wires. I think I will wrap them for future insurance. polaraman
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#23
08-12-2005, 11:08 PM
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YEEE HAWWWWWW! Well folks this is what I got so far. Have to find the vertical adjustment and set up the color. I think we have an operational set here!!
 I do not have cable in the other living room. I would hook it to cable and get a screen shot. Color bars will have to do for right now. polaraman
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#24
08-13-2005, 01:26 AM
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Great TV!!!
What was needed to get TV going Polarman?? Nice set!!!!! Definetely one of RCA's better designs, supposed to be RCA's first truly reliable TV. Easier to maintain than 15" sets as crts available also.
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#25
08-16-2005, 03:23 AM
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I worked on the set some more today. Got the vertical adjusted and the picture now fills the screen. I hooked up an antenna for this next picture. It has a lot of snow. I do not have enough cable coax to run across the house to this TV. That will be a project when I get back from vacation. I also do not have enough room to back away to get a good picture. I still have a lot of adjustments to do to the CTC 9. I plan on watching NFL football on this set. Can't wait til the season starts!
The set is alive! polaraman
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