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#2
12-07-2006, 11:18 PM
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I have used rubbing alcohol for that purpose. Set the chassis on its side or at a slant, spritz a bit from a spray bottle and work with a soft rag or children's toothbrush as needed, and keep going until it runs clear.
This can clean up everyday gunk (smoke, cooking grease), but won't remove corrosion, of course. Can't guarantee what might happen to lettering on boards, but that would be easy enough to test with a Q-tip dabbed in alcohol. I know boatanchor guys who run their grubby chassis through a dishwasher, but I would not, repeat NOT recommend that under any circumstances. If your chassis looks good after cleaning but still seems a little stinky, give it a day or two. I recently finished a Hallicrafters SX-28 that was coated in decades of cigar tar. It seemed faintly smelly after the initial cleaning, but that quickly dissipated. If patient cleaning with alcohol doesn't get rid of the tar and stink, you can step up to stronger solvents. I have washed a couple of truly awful chassis with lacquer thinner, believe it or not, and it didn't seem to harm anything. 
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#3
12-08-2006, 01:09 AM
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Rubbing alcohol would be the safest and won't remove paint unless rubbed.
Laquer thinner is much stronger and will remove labels, paint and glue from things. Don't use laquer thinner on wires or coils, etc. I wouldn' use it at all.
Since everthing needs cleaning I would use Phil's alcohol method. Formula 409 or Fantastic would work great but needs to be thoroughly flushed with distilled water, then it would need to be flushed with alcohol to get the water out, then it needs to sun/air dry for several hours. I would remove any paper labels and reglue them afterwards. Putting anything valuable in the dishwasher is nuts. How about before and after pics?
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#4
12-08-2006, 06:18 PM
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imagine what the wife would have to say about the dishwasher afterwards
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#7
12-08-2006, 07:42 PM
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I had a friend in Memphis that used to stand the chassis up at an angle and wash them with a water hose. He would then let it air dry in the sun. Always made me nervous, and I don't recommend it. I use rubbing alcohol, but I know one tech that kept a bottle of pga on the bench for cleaning boards and such. It would either clean it off well, or he could just have a drink and not care anymore. Actually pga does work prety well, but I will stick with the rubbing alcohol.
Bill R
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#8
12-08-2006, 09:03 PM
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May sound foolish at first, but...
Quote:
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#9
12-08-2006, 10:45 PM
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I recommend distilled water because of the chlorine, chemicals aand minerals in
regular waters.
Then a thorough flush of isopropyl alcohol would help expell that pure water. Followed by the sun/air drying. I think that would be the safest method to ensure no minerals or chemicals stay behind to corode some microscopic area that could lead to problems. I know Andy is a great guy but using a dishwasher is about as lazy as it gets and is very likely to leave corrosive micro deposits. So, it works fine afterwards...what about months or years from now. Come on fellas.. how about some credit for giving the obvious best advice. Is that ask'n too much? My primary interest is the wellfare of the rare electronics and the happiness of all who use them.
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#10
12-08-2006, 11:21 PM
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Now read these posts again, no one has advocated putting things with coils or other moisture trapping electronic parts in the dishwasher.
Personally I use a spray called "Con-Tak" which is a fairly mild solvent cleaner, it is an environmentally sound replacement for what would have been Freon cleaning spray. Am kind of leary myself of using water, but I have had TV's which are soaked with rainwater work fine after drying out completely so water cleaning is probably pretty benign especially if the chassis is forced-air dryed.
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#11
12-09-2006, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Once the chassis is back on the bench, the time consuming cleaning with a toothbrush, paper towels, and a solvent is next, anything from Windex to a vinegar-based kitchen cleaner I bought years ago. Don't know if it's still in stock (64-4345), but Radio Shack electronics cleaner with a built-in brush does a fine job for me. Here's a before/after picture of a water-cleaned 1951 color-ready Admiral -- no more dust and cobwebs. Check the 1956 Philco TV-123 color chassis after its thorough water cleaning, degreasing, and polishing. Love it when the tube shields shine up like that.
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#12
12-09-2006, 11:44 AM
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Putting the RF deck off an R-390A isn't as screwy as it sounds-it's stainless, mostly mechanical, & unlike civilian stuff, R-390As are kinda designed to be worked on.
__________________
Benevolent Despot
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#13
12-09-2006, 12:45 PM
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That chassis looks nice. The problem here in the central to eastern part Texas(and for that matter, the entire southeast) is that the humidity rusts the chassis somewhat over the years(especially if the TV is in a non-climate controlled area), so some re-coating is usually necessary for things to look that good.
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#15
12-09-2006, 04:50 PM
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That's a neat cabinet design.
Much more cool than the basic box which I like also.
I think dishwashing liquid would work well with soft wiping on the CRT frame so as no too loose the paint. I wouldn't use anything stronger than Formula 409 or Fantastic on a damp terry cloth rag to do it. It will be nice to see it cleaned up without loosing paint, letters, stickers, inside and out. Shouldn't that big hot resistor under the flyback area be on the other side of that terminal strip to not heat up that small side transformer as much? Would the factory have put it like that or is it a replacement that was installed wrong? Is it the original terminal strip? If that terminal strip is burned to the point of being brittle and easy to break would that mean it is a high hours set or did those strips burn out with average to low hours?
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