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  #31  
Old 01-05-2010, 04:00 AM
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bandersen bandersen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubejunke View Post
Seems like there has been a thead before where it was mentioned that there were two types of 'Micamold' caps. One type, if I remember correctly, was paper inside the dotted case, which would be basically a fake, and of course being a paper wound cap would be one to replace. The actual "Micamold" caps are supposedly more like ceramics, you can leave them alone in most cases. There is a visual way to tell the difference. I wish I could remember.......help!

Perhaps someone else who remembers this thread can make sure my version is correct, and we can refresh the subject for newer people.
Perhaps this will help. I posted this figure from an old ARRL handbook in my 7VT2 restoration thread.

It shows that true mica have a black dot while paper have a silver dot in the upper left corner.

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  #32  
Old 01-05-2010, 05:25 AM
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Old1625 Old1625 is offline
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FYI I had long ago in the past restored a Westinghouse 21" table model that had been in a flooded cellar for what may have been years. It was thick with mud all over the chassis. I hosed the darn thing out, left it in the sun to dry, and fired it up after re-inserting all of the tubes and applying tuner-lube to sockets and all of the controls. The set worked perfectly for two years before the selenium rectifiers let go, and stank us out.

But that was neglect. What you have there may have involved "tinker-bobs"--which can make for a troubleshooting nightmare.
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  #33  
Old 01-06-2010, 12:32 AM
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Tubejunke Tubejunke is offline
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Thanks Bandersen for the visual. Perfect!
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