Three new Admirals on my porch - Page 3 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

WISCOJIM · #1 07-31-2011, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bandersen

I stumbled across someone selling an empty, intact 19A11 cabinet. They say they'll be at the ARCI radiofest in a few days.
I do plan on going and if it's still available and I have any money left, I just might go for it.

I'll be in my usual spots at Willowbrook with that cabinet Bob. Seven spaces shared with Alan Jesperson in the area circled on the parking lot picture below:

bandersen · #2 07-31-2011, 04:15 PM

I figure I'd better do a little exploratory surgery before I place an order for parts with Mouser.

First up the 16R12 tabletop.
The cabinet is in really good conditions as is the chassis. No rust thanks to the copper plating.

The vertical output transformer has been replace along with a few paper caps.
Hmm, the resistors look a little odd

They're all German! I wonder if they had trouble sourcing parts to keep up with demand ?

bandersen · #3 07-31-2011, 04:19 PM

Here's the 26R12. It's cabinet is also in good condition.

This chassis is also in good condition. No corrosion and only a few replacement parts.
Also, no German resistors.

Here they are side-by-side. You can really see the difference between the Silverama CRT on the left and the 16KP4 on the right.

I'll create separate restoration threads once I begin work to avoid confusion.

kvflyer · #4 08-01-2011, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bandersen

Here's the 16R26. It's cabinet is also in good condition.

Here they are side-by-side. You can really see the difference between the Silverama CRT on the left and the 16KP4 on the right.

I'll create separate restoration threads once I begin work to avoid confusion.

Bob,

I think that the 16R12 came with a 16KP4/16RP4 originally. I wonder if that CRT was a replacement and it was made to work in the cabinet? Or, maybe it was a version of the same one. Interesting.

You can see that the HV cage is different between the two chassis so it is entirely possible that the 16R12 came with the 17" tube. Both chassis that I had/have are like your 26R12 with the louvers etc.

As for resistors, I found a similar thing when I worked on my set. There were several "doubled up" resistors to attain a certain value. I suspected a poor repair job in the past. But it was suggested that Admiral was having difficulty getting resistors, maybe for the reason stated above. So, yours is interesting. As you can see, an easy restore with plenty of room. I opened all of the electrolytic cans and stuffed them. In one situation, I could not fit one value so I installed two in parallel and they fit just fine, I am thinking it was a 20µFD and I installed two identical 10µFD in parallel. That fit just fine.

One other thing that you may find odd is that both of my chassis have a 12H6 instead of a 6H6 and both chassis were rubber stamped with "12H6" so I know it was not a mistake

kvflyer · #5 08-01-2011, 10:31 AM

An ad...

These images are low res for web posting...

bandersen · #6 07-31-2011, 08:50 PM

Excellent! See you on Friday

Electronic M · #7 07-31-2011, 11:36 PM

I have a Majestic TV that has several of those german resistors in it. I wondered if any other american sets used them, and now I know.

dieseljeep · #8 08-01-2011, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I have a Majestic TV that has several of those german resistors in it. I wondered if any other american sets used them, and now I know.

Someone claimed, there were parts shortages because of the Korean war. I think the green ones are Japanese "Koaohm".

Electronic M · #9 08-01-2011, 12:02 PM

At least one of the green dogbone esque resistors (which constitute all the odd ones on my set) are labeled "Germany".

Tom C.

bandersen · #10 08-01-2011, 03:06 PM

Thanks for the info and the cool ad

It seems they made this chassis for several years and there were many revisions.

Here's an excerpt from Beitmans 1952.

Quote:

A 12H6 tube may be used instead of a 6AL5 tube for V404 sync discriminator. A 6H6 tube was also used in some sets. The pin numbering for the 12H6 and 6H6 is identical; the 6AL5 pin numbering is different.

When the 12H6 tube is used for V404, an auto-transformer is used to step up the 6.3 volts to 12.6...

If a 12H6 is not available for replacement, a type 6H6 tube may be used if the following changes to the heater circuit are made...

It seems not just resistors were in short supply.

bandersen · #11 08-01-2011, 03:08 PM

Arg! The copper chassis is missing the IF shield

kvflyer · #12 08-02-2011, 06:06 AM

Bob,

Few things:

- Thanks for that update about the filament voltage of the 12H6. I don't have the Beitmans (Do have the Wallace's Telaides) and didn't know it. I will have see if I can find this autotransformer and/or measure the filament voltage of the 12H6. Neither chassis had the 6AL5. But that could easily be changed with the correct wafer socket if necessary.

- I don't think I have the IF shield but will look. I did save some other items like the flyback, yoke etc. from the 16R12 that I had to part out. I got it for the HV cage that was missing from my 26R12. Bakelite cabinet arrived in multiple pieces due to poor (make that non-existent) packing material.

- And I can email the ad in a much higher res to you if you wish...

bandersen · #13 08-02-2011, 03:51 PM

Ugh, sorry to hear about the smashed cabinet

I found even more production changes and service notes in Riders volume #8 including the addition of the color adapter in run #6.

The ETF only has a scan from volume 6.

Thanks for looking. If you donlt have the cover, I'll try to cobble something together. My parts order is scheduled to arrive tomorrow just 48 hours after I placed it

PM sent with email address.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kvflyer

Bob,

Few things:

- Thanks for that update about the filament voltage of the 12H6. I don't have the Beitmans (Do have the Wallace's Telaides) and didn't know it. I will have see if I can find this autotransformer and/or measure the filament voltage of the 12H6. Neither chassis had the 6AL5. But that could easily be changed with the correct wafer socket if necessary.

- I don't think I have the IF shield but will look. I did save some other items like the flyback, yoke etc. from the 16R12 that I had to part out. I got it for the HV cage that was missing from my 26R12. Bakelite cabinet arrived in multiple pieces due to poor (make that non-existent) packing material.

- And I can email the ad in a much higher res to you if you wish...

kvflyer · #14 08-02-2011, 06:21 PM

Bob,

I checked. I have the entire IF strip/chassis if you need it. But the damaged set was missing the IF bottom cover as well. Sorry.

I have a yoke, flyback, focus coil, rubber CRT bell cushion, the old electrolytics (for stuffing purposes), the color adapter dummy plug, tuner and a few other items.

kvflyer · #15 08-02-2011, 06:40 PM

BTW,

After the set was working just fine on the bench for about 2 hours, I heard a pop and the picture looked like this. Linearity control was able to fill the screen but linearity was even worse. Height control didn't do much. Changed a few resistors to no avail. I tried a substitute cathode capacitor on the 6S4, thinking maybe it went south. I was disgusted so I let it sit for several weeks.

Look at the voltages of the vertical section. The problem was staring right at me but I didn't see it. The voltage on the plate of V401A, the Oscillator was 175 Volts instead of 100 Volts. The next key was rotating the height control did not change the voltage. Hmmmm.

Long story short, one of the guys mentioned tin whiskers. I took out the 2.5 meg height control and cleaned it up. Problem solved. Must have had whiskers!

Now, it works just fine. Just a heads up for your