|
|
|
#4
12-14-2009, 11:29 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
How wide is the belt? A common solution in radio circles is to cut a length of O-ring material, place over the pulleys, hold the ends tight, and super-glue them. Sounds tacky, but I have O-ring belts that have held up for years.
Unless the belt is really wide and flat, the round stock works fine. Square stock is available, but it tends to climb out of the pulley more than round. You want the length so that you have to stretch it a tiny bit to glue the ends. Buy enough stock for two or three tries, in case you don't get the tension right the first time. An alternative would be to find a flat belt longer than needed, and trim & superglue at the right length. Phil 
|
|
#5
12-14-2009, 11:56 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I believe you are referring to this belt. Mine is hard as a rock.
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#6
12-15-2009, 01:03 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Clean & lube the mechanism to make sure it turns freely, then try an O-ring belt. It might wander back and forth a bit, but who cares, as long as it grips and doesn't climb out. You can finish the restoration and use the tuner while waiting for the belt of your dreams to show up. Total cost to experiment: about 25 cents.
Guys who restore Zenith TransOceanic radios claim you can soften hardened rubber suction cups (on the WaveMagnet) by soaking in Armor-All for a long time, like a week or two. No idea what your belt's made of, so who knows whether it would work. Maybe you'd end up with a rock-hard belt that's really shiny. On the other hand, what have you got to lose? Just some ideas . . . Phil
|
|
#7
12-15-2009, 08:47 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks all, bandersen's pic is exactly it............ its 1/4" wide and hard as a
rock. The tensioner makes use of a all rubber belt not practical. Original was layered fabric, not sure if it was rubberised or not - construction probably similiar to auto v-belt, but flat. I hoped someone had solved this problem already, I'm still trying to figure out an off-shelf solution. thanks again............
|
|
#8
12-15-2009, 10:47 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I've never done it, but how 'bout a piece of flat shoelace, with the splice cut on a bias and stitched with sewing thread? Then "rubberize" the finished belt with something very pliable like thinned contact cement(?). Just an idea. Bill(oc)
|
|
#9
12-15-2009, 03:48 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
The belt on my RCA t-120 is the same. It looks to be all leather, and still in decent shape, although it does slip a bit. If you look at later production models, they add a fine tuning knob above the tuner that does away with that belt mechanism, meaning it must not have worked so great when new.
|
|
#10
12-16-2009, 01:07 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
'old coot88' is apparently on target, but instead of shoe laces, I used bias tape from a fabric shop, 1/4" wide:: cut to length, contact cement into loop, when dry, contact cement inside loop & let dry - provides good grip & works well so far.
Also tried metal dial cord, 3 loopes on each pulley, works great. Existing tensioner used. Fabric dial cord will probably work as well. problem solved thanks for input...........
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#11
12-30-2009, 04:46 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
 It actually works fine now  Seems to be made of several layers of fabric impregnated with rubber. 
Last edited by bandersen; 12-30-2009 at 06:02 PM.
|
|
#13
12-31-2009, 12:05 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I've used two flat VCR belts ontop of eachother for thickness, and also in a pinch, a square or round belt will work. I have several new old stock RCA fabric belts, but they're just as dried & hard as yours probably is/was.
Charles
__________________
Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10
|
|
#14
12-31-2009, 12:32 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Phil
|
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
