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#1
06-21-2016, 11:04 AM
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Philco Predicta Pedestal
Ive always wanted a Philco Predicta pedestal and one popped up at an auction near me last weekend! It's the blonde version which is in great shape. It has the 2.68v CRT and it tests good. Looks like I'll have another Predicta to restore after I finish the Debutante I'm on now...
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#2
06-21-2016, 12:37 PM
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It took a lot of elbow grease, but I finally got the CRT cover clean and polished. Couldn't stand looking at it the way it was.
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#3
06-21-2016, 01:28 PM
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Awesome! I electronically restored one - also a rare blonde version and also minty original over last winter and its a real nice player. Resist the temptation to skimp with the capacitors-get all of them before powering up. Then do an evaluation and continue your work from there. As long as the CRT is good and the flyback, you can expect a nice player. These are fun TVs to own and enjoy!!
George
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#4
06-22-2016, 11:40 PM
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I have an un-restored blonde version setting here too. Mine has the UHF tuner option. I'm not so sure that the blonde is more rare than the mahogany finish. Considering the time these were manufactured I'd of thought the blonde was the more popular finish of that time.
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#5
06-25-2016, 06:40 PM
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I put this set up on the bench and it looks like the last guy added wires everywhere around the main electrolyric. I may need help figuring out which wires go to which section of the main electrolyric. Not sure what happened here...
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#6
06-26-2016, 02:58 AM
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Wow! Perhaps someone was strapping external caps in parallel with cans, in an effort to troubleshoot...
Very nice looking set. My mom still has a near mint blonde table top Predicta she bought new. I still remember watching The Outer Limits on it when the show originally aired and being quite scared, ha! I restored it for her about 20 years ago, and also restored two other identical sets after that one. They use the same chassis as the pedestal model. If you don't already have a SAMs for the set its well worth picking up. Last edited by GKinTN; 06-26-2016 at 03:08 AM.
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#7
06-26-2016, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
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#8
06-29-2016, 11:18 AM
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Ok,
I've got the electrolytics hooked back up to the original. I fired it up under a variac and I still cannot get the tubes to light. My fusible resistor is in and all of the tubes test good. I even jumped the on/off switch as I know they're often faulty. Of course I've gotta go through all of the resistors and caps as usual, but any thoughts why I'm getting none of the filaments to light?
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#9
06-29-2016, 12:03 PM
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Series string heaters: if one is open none light...And if anything else in the string such as tube sockets, board traces, solder joints, or wire is bad the same problem will occur.....You basically have to ohm out the whole heater string till you find the open, or voltage test it.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
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#10
06-29-2016, 10:20 PM
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You might reflow the solder connections on all the PC board tube socket terminals. I usually add just a tiny bit of solder while doing this to help the heat to conduct and to bridge any cracks/breaks in the soldering. As mentioned above you should check the entire filament string with a meter, including continuity of the each tube filament too with a little expected resistance there of course.
Page 3 of the SAMS on this shows the filament string detail. Here is a link to the entire 21 page PDF: http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/P...Sams-439-1.pdf Last edited by GKinTN; 06-29-2016 at 11:05 PM.
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#11
06-30-2016, 11:53 PM
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Ok, so I checked continuity through each filament string and couldn't find a problem. Then I got to thinking, the string includes the two tuner tubes, which I left unplugged in the cabinet. I plugged in the tuner and the entire filament string and dial light came on! I didn't get a raster, but no suprise with original electrolytics in. Now I will make a wiring diagram of all connections and begin removal of the board.
Last edited by Radiotronman; 07-01-2016 at 12:06 AM. Reason: Spelling
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#12
07-01-2016, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
http://antiqueradio.org/philc12.htm You're welcome to use it, although I'd still recommend checking to make sure all of the connections are the same and the labels make sense to you. Regards, Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios http://antiqueradio.org/index.html
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#13
07-01-2016, 08:52 AM
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I changed out my fusistor and I did get a slight raster only on the far right of the screen. At least the flyback is good!
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#14
07-01-2016, 10:42 AM
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Thanks Phil, my wiring color layout is exactly the same. That'll save me done time. Here is my unrestored board, ready for me to go through everything.
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#15
07-06-2016, 10:27 PM
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While I'm waiting on new caps to arrive, I thought it would be a good time to clean the chassis and get all of the sticky goo off all of the wire. Looks like new again.
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