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Originally Posted by ARC Tech-109
when you described having to hit the set and things started working that was the first clue to intermittent connections. The gradual shift to bright then loss of H-sync points to either a thermal issue that might be taking down a power supply line or a bad capacitor that's hogging current.
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I think it may also be an issue of the tube drawing TOO much current. Because the picture looks brighter post-recap. Almost too bright. It actually gets less focused.
That's why I alluded to the Sub Bright pot. Perhaps we can see if running dimmer will stop the horizontal f*ckery. Then we will know if it's an undercurrent or overvoltage problem.
I'm tempted to think it is overvoltage, like zeno said.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ARC Tech-109
Learning electronics isn't easy, after 45 years I'm still learning and getting off the ground can be really tough when you're dealing with a tough dog. Test equipment is essential but sometimes the best tool is the experienced gained over the years, best advice I can offer is to take it slow, read & study the schematics and stick with it. I started swapping tubes in old B&W sets when I was in the 3rd grade when Carter was in office. You will get there, problems are only opportunities in work clothes that are designed to bring you up to the next level. You CAN do it.
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Thanks for the pep talk, although slightly unnecessary.

I know I'll get the set in tip-top shape eventually.
My last and first recap was a Macintosh LC. The logic board required surface mount caps while the rottening power supply used through-holes.