I was attempting to test the 160v supply. I measured the positive leg of C559 to ground, it was something like 140v. But then the HOT popped again. I am so sick and tired of throwing away money at new HOTs.
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Originally Posted by vol.2
It will look less focused when the brightness and contrast is higher, that's normal. definitely turn it down to something that looks "normal" if it's gotten brighter after replacing caps.
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There is no contrast control. Brightness is always at minimum. I turned down Sub Bright but the H sync still goes off.
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Originally Posted by ARC Tech-109
Seriously if it was mine I'd go over every solder connection on the board with a touch of solder
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I've done just that, reflowing the pads for the power supply, H circuit and some of the rest. That only seems to have made things worse. Now there is no color & white horizontal dots across the screen.
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Originally Posted by vol.2
I agree with the other post about the supply caps. Pull and test any electrolytics in the supply. That's 802 803 804 805 in the 130 V, 502 in the 12V, and all those other small voltages, C558 C203 C307 C564 C1603 C1604
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Actually, I've probably already replaced those. The only caps left alone were in the audio circuit or were bipolar.
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Originally Posted by vol.2
Pay special attention to the caps shaded in grey
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None were grey?!
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Originally Posted by vol.2
Also you might want to test the supply transistors. Q801, Q802, Q552 You can either test each leg just to confirm they are functioning as transistors still, but those cheapo component testers will quickly tell you if they are probably still working or not as well
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I suppose it doesn't hurt to try.